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It flies ! Maiden flight on a local Devon slope this afternoon - blowing 25-30mph - had to be done. Flew ok from launch but dive test immediately pulled up - very nose heavy. Flew better on the second flight with 20g of lead taped to the tail end. Its fast, its aerobatic in a smooth sort of way, looks good in the air - good fun & worth exploring further. Video of maiden to follow when its edited - maybe next week. Phil.
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It is important to land as directly in to wind as you can. That is one reason I have a rod with a piece of string attached to my TX. Easy to see wind direction, no need to suck my finger and hold it up . Landing cross wind is asking for trouble. Better to land down wind than attempt low turn and end up skidding sideways and breaking the fin.
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Thanks Peter. Neil Jones kindly remade the soldered joints for me, direct to the motor, no connectors. I have a watt meter I can video the startup to see current draw. I will experiment when I can safely run outside on a test stand - bit breezy at the moment.
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Problem most likely is not related to the AMRT. As I understand it, startup speed refers to the voltage increasing, either as programmed by the esc or as applied by tx throttle (or both together) to make the motor rotate faster Startup power is Amp draw at the motor to provide power to overcome the resistance caused by the prop as the voltage tries to make the motor rotate faster. Hope some one will correct me if this is wrong. Without a prop on, the motor start pretty much instantly and will run very fast even at low voltage and most manufacturers warn against running fast without a prop. One possible cause of erratic starting worth checking on is the solder joints in the wires and plugs between the motor and the esc. All my models have YGE esc. and they are very reliable. I have burnt one out, it was my fault, I sent it back to YGE who repaired it. Total cost of postage to and from Germany and the repair was about £55 which was a lot cheaper than buying another 65LVT.
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No problem, another possibility might be this company too. https://www.dymetalloys.co.uk/ Both of these companies make tungsten blanks for tool manufacture. They have a wide variety of standard shapes and also specials for their customers. As sintered pieces would probably do for ballast pieces (grinding it is expensive) and if you can use something they have or perhaps some dead stock on their shelf it might not be as expensive as you think. If you do need to grind small chamfers or similar it can be done with a silicon carbide abrasive wheel on a bench glider if you are careful and don’t have many to do.
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sideways load from me not getting all the landings smooth and in a straight line. I have a field 1 min walk away I can fly in, so have been getting out at least once a day while the weather is nice to try and up my skills, so my landings are getting better, but I still cant nail it every time. I think if I made some balsa ones with maybe a carbon sparthen I could almost consider them as expendable until I have improved my landings. O I was wondering about a super thin ply one that might have some flex? tom
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Don't worry about that. There are no points for where your cg is and I have never heard of manufacturers coming around to check... If it suits your flying style it's right.
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I have wondered if I trimmed to fly too fast, and slowing the plane down will just show how much up trim I actually need to carry. On a calm day, just how slow do you trim your plane to maintain level flight? The thing that concerns me is I feel once I have finished that my cg will be far from the suggested range.
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[SOLD] - New Jeti Rex 7 Assist and Speed Sensor for Sale
Ribs replied to Ribs's topic in For Sale / Wanted
Both items now sold. Thanks for your interest. -
That seems to be pulling up quite a lot, if your estimates are correct. You may have too much up trim. It should not be pulling up on its own in level flight. It should continue for a fair distance maintaining its attitude and speed. You may need a relatively calm day or at least one with constant wind speed to check this properly. Gusts will effectively change the flying speed momentarily and affect attitude. Remember, the dive test is pointless unless the glider is trimmed properly for level flight. You can have a rearward cg, but have too much up trim and in a dive test it will pull up. Does that mean it is stable/forward CG? No, of course not.
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Elf lot is sold, thanks for your interest.
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Thanks Mike, currently I’m leaving it, I find it flies hands off a lot yet even I can still spot lift with it so I feel I shouldn’t mess with it anymore.
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If you like how it is flying, then leave it alone. The elevator trim will cause next to no additional drag. You generally need different trim for different camber settings, so you are not going to have the elevator always lined up with the tail anyway. Just a note, from the perspective of the glider, there is no upwind or downwind, only from your ground based perspective. So there is no trim difference required. Hence MikeF’s comment about people often stalling when flying downwind pulling up to ‘slow’ it down.
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Thanks Mike, you came across clear even with the duplication. When flying downwind it’s pretty much hands off, it will nose up by itself, but I find it noses up more by itself down wind than up. since I’ve never had anyone else fly my planes, how would you describe a more rearward cg/neutral plane? Will it just be very pitch sensitive or will it really be wandering on roll also and require constant corrections? I may already be just on the side of stable and up the up trim just looks worse than it actually is, especially since it’s not aggressively pulling up from a dive test, just barely reaches level from starting a 45 degree shallow dive at 20-25m height (all I dared with a loose vert yesterday) I like how it flies, just I was re-watching my Bruce Davidson videos and when he talks of trim I wondered if I could really improve mine. Or I fly my planes a bit fast and slowing it down some more would should the true extent of my up trim. I get it’s a balancing act and the dive test is more to show the state of your trim and not necessarily the stability and cg of the plane.
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For a smaller model like yours, I’m sure it will be fine. But you are unlikely to make a balsa one as light and strong as a carbon one. How's the damage caused? Is it vertical load from the fun hitting the ground or side ways load on the fin?
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[SOLD] - DLG Starter Kit - Elf and Radio For Sale
PaulR replied to Ribs's topic in For Sale / Wanted
Hi, would you be willing to split the TX and model? I’m interested in the Elf and only down the road in Frome. Might be good to let my boys loose on and possibly my Dad too. -
The above came out slightly muddled with a repeat section sorry - for some reason I can't edit it without the lot disappearing! I was going to add that, in general, if you have several flap positions set on your model for different flight conditions (variable camber) the elevator will only line up with the tail in one of them. The drag due to the elevator being slightly deflected is negligible.
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If it noses up hands off you need a down-elevator trim change. Most people tend to stall going downwind - you get the impression that the model is flying ' too fast' so you pull back on the stick. Once the model is trimmed for a steady glide, the amount it pulls up in a dive test will depend on the CG position. The angle of the elevator relative to the fixed part of the tail, in a given trim state, depends on the angle at which the fixed tail is mounted on the fuselage. If you can see that the elevator doesn’t line up with the tailplane when the model is trimmed for a steady glide you could shim the fixed part of the tail until all looks lined up but don't forget this won't be as much as it seems to need now. As you rotate the fixed part LE down, TE up, you'll need less upward deflection of the elevator relative to the tail. If you can see that the elevator doesn’t line up with the tailplane when the model is trimmed for a steady glide you could shim the fixed part of the tail until all looks lined up but don't forget this won't be as much as it seems to need now. As you rotate the fixed part LE down, TE up, you'll need less upward deflection of the elevator relative to the tail. If the model is trimmed correctly for a steady glide now, and you move the elevator TE down to line up with the tailplane, you will need to move the CG back a bit. This will reduce pitch stability from your current condition. It will then pull up more slowly from the dive test.
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Hi guys, So, flying the Auri and the spec sheet cg recommendation is 63-64mm. I am currently at 65 but I can visibly see some up trim in my elevator. A dive test shows it just pulls up slightly, not as much as I would have imagined though with the up trim I can see by eye. Flying along I find it flies hands off ok but does nose up, even flying downwind and I have to push on the stick a bit to stop it stalling. But I can park it upwind and it will sit there for a while pretty steady. Maybe I’m just catching the lift up going downwind and nosing up into it? (I find this highly unlikely though) At this point would you change anything? I thought about trimming the elevator dead flat and getting a level flight via nose or tail weight but I think this would put the cg quite far back from what’s suggested. When would you shim the elevator to correct any possible decalage issue? Thanks in advance.
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I decided to compare the ‘plane slow‘ start with the ‘plane middle' start on the bench. 'Slow' first, prop-off (indoors) and it starts instantly. No point trying 'middle' on the bench, it couldn't be any quicker. Does this tell me anything? (I didn't mention before, there's an AMRT in the esc to Rx line but it wasn't there when I first flew the model and the start delay was always there.) What I'm getting with the prop on is a delay (possibly a variable delay?) rather than a slow wind-up. Does anyone else get a delay, (of about a second) after slamming to full throttle, before the motor starts? I have the throttle set to full and then switch the throttle cut off to start. Can anyone explain the difference between the effects of startup speed and startup power please? Could the ESC be faulty - has anyone else got a similar ESC - if so, please, what are your settings? I'll try a change to the settings and test it prop-on when the wind drops a bit.
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I don't know that model but you could estimate the weight - light balsa is about 6 lb./cu.ft.
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Hi I keep creasing the fin on my mini dart DLG, mainly cos I cant catch it every time and the field I fly in is very short grass and very hard. I have fixed it a few times but it is now just getting heavier. If I made a balsa fin, either with our without glass skin and carbon spar, as I can make these very cheaply, anyone got any idea how much heavier it would be compared to a the current carbon foam one? The carbon one is 3grams Thanks Tom
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Rex Taylor joined the community
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It's had a test flight... I only wanted to throw it for a trim flight and see how it reacted to rudder input but the wind was too light and variable to be able to do this. Instead I got the bungee out for some flat launches to just get some speed up to see what happened. Did a couple like that, couldn't really gauge anything, so then went 'all in' and had a go at a proper launch. It goes up nice! Rotates itself into the climb and just needs a little back pressure to keep the line under tension. Once up I could really tell how it went. Much better as it goes! There is still a little wallow if you try come out of the turn too quickly and changes of direction look horrid, almost like adverse yaw from a No Rudder aileron roll, quite strange but that's just how then are if what I read about them is true. Cant wait to have a go in a decent breeze now
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. Taranis X9D Plus SE 2019 - Carbon. NEW
Marc RC pilot replied to Marc RC pilot's topic in For Sale / Wanted
more pics -
Brand new. Tx with 8gig SD card, Ethix screen protector, Lipo battery. Comes with a F3k program etc installed (Thx Mark). Link for specs: https://www.t9hobbysport.com/taranis-x9d-plus-se-2019-2.4ghz-transmitter I bought this set as a back-up to my existing one, but it's just sitting under my bed in a box. and I need more important things in my life: 1) KST 08 servos 2) 3m thermal/sports glider, full house, older gen but something half descent 3) Auri 1.5m Dlg Otherwise looking at £200 posted for tx, screen protector, sd card and battery. Let me know what you think. Marc
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