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- Yesterday
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Hi does anyone own or flown a IGI 2, I can find lots of write ups about the Mefisto but of the IGI 2. Any feed back would be great about how flys, capability, regards to pure glider for slope flying. cheers
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Did you flash the V2.0.1 firmware. RC-Soar (Mike S) tells me it is very buggy. Are you trying to bind in D8 or D16? Try the other one, whichever did not bind before. Else maybe one of the earlier earlier versions you can find here: https://www.frsky-rc.com/xjt/ I believe I have 150413 installed on my X9D+ and it binds to a fairly old X4R in D16 mode, giving me telemetry and another X4R in D8 - no telemetry. I may have to flash both to LBT as I understand the Tx will still stay bound to the D8 receivers but I would have to re-bind to any on D16 and maybe flash LBT to those Rx's. ITS A MINEFIELD
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That is what i was thinking wookman, but i dont know whether to attatch a rod between the blade and the servo as it might have a drain on the servo to hold the brake closed. As pete said it might be better to have a small magnet to keep the blade shut, so i could perhaps not have the blade attatched to a pushrod and have a long servo arm to simply push the brake out ? I have tried the ailerons as brakes before but didnt like it as it flexed the wings too much anhedrally ( is that even a word ?).
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Go for some home made barn door brakes hinged off the back of the spar operated by a cheap analogue wing servo and a short push rod.
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Beat me to it.
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Taranis X9D+ XJT module firmware - help needed
Graham Woods replied to Scram's topic in RC Equipment
Is this it here? https://www.frsky-rc.com/taranis-x9d-plus-2/ 2015-12-23151223 XJT_LBT_build151223 integrates both D16_LBT mode and LR12 mode. For LR12 mode, just flash the firmware for XJT module, internal modules for Taranis X9D Plus and X9E, while L9R receiver does not need to be flashed. Existing L9R receivers could work with it as well. LBT firmware is not compatible with previous EU firmware. FrSky highly suggests you to upgrade your radios, modules, receivers with old EU firmware to their corresponding LBT firmware. 69KBDOWNLOAD -
Hi Andrewdorset I haven't paid as much as £90.00 for most of my sport aircraft I understand "electronic" brakes are aimed at people who don't have the time, or skill, or even the knowledge to make an actuating mechanism that doesn't stop working or even break if, g*d forbid, either of your wings pulls out from the fuselage, disengaging (or even breaking) your brake operating system. Don't forget though, you are still going to have to cut the holes in the wing(s) top skins to fit them If your "simple flap type" brakes are operated by thin nylon braided string, and held shut by a small cupboard magnet, your linkage or even your brakes themselves, will not be broken when a hard landing moves the wing roots out from the fuselage sides If your model has ailerons it should/would be easy to programme your ailerons to take the place of your flaps by moving full UP together to brake the model without fear of stalling it.........your choice Good luck Pete BARCS1702
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Why not just flash both to the EU LBT?
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So I took my spare X9Plus and installed the new firmware onto the internal XJT module, then flashed a now out of production X4R with the new LBT firmware. It wouldn’t bind. Now I can’t find the old firmware to reverse the tx flash. I’ve just been told to avoid the new firmware as it has a problem with the telemetry so I won’t be bothering. I love my Taranis, love the price, love the telemetry, it I never have any issues like this with my Futaba SG14, it just works but at a stupid price!
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Therein lies my problem, I'm trying to bind a new S8R Rx to my 2015 T+ which I think is on the 2015_eu firmware for the XJT. I need the later FCC version.
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I also flashed the latest rx firmware but it still wont bind to my TX and that has the latest EU LBT. I just flashed the earlier firmware and it now binds. Really cant be botherd flashing all the 20 or so rx I have buried in quads and fixed wing.
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Can anyone help by providing me with a copy of the FrSky XJT module firmware version 151223. I understand from Rich (T9) that originally this would have been provided with both LBT and FCC versions of the firmware. I need the FCC version (else not the LBT version if it is called someat else) and it is no longer included in the download available from FrSky. This will be a .rar file. If anyone has a copy, could you please attach it to a reply here. Thanks v. muchly. Jerry
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Yep they have them but not cheap. Cant justify nearly £90 for a set on a built up Graupner cirrus wing. Might have a go at building a simple flap type that pivots up off the wing surface.
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Simple work around is email the images to yourself and the phone should advise how large you want them before sending.
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Think you will find its per post Neil, so no need for separate topics. Perhaps change the resolution your phone is taking pictures at and test in the test forum. Do you want me to merge these into one topic?
- Last week
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BTW I am actually loving getting back into the workshop and modding and modernising this model. When this was first produced 3 d printers where like fiction, getting 2 kg pull from a sub micro Servo was impossible, sprung control surfaces had not been invented, FrSky Taranis was not invented.
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something worth trying as we as in Heli flyers use them a lot on the tail so make sure we don't have any ATV on the servo for the Gyro set up would need to be cut down a bit but good thing is it can be flipped over to make a left and right hand one with out any problems never had one come loose not even in a good crash and I spanked a 700 big time so have tried lol CNC Adjustable Metal Servo Arm For Futaba Kst T-Rex Tarot RC 500 550 600 700 item number: 191729711367 I am sure if you look they make them for other brands of servos
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Here is a picture of how the ballast is held in. Anyone familiar with the Supra or Maxa will know this system it works very well you just have to plan around it for f5j. So what i will do in future is drill through the bottom of the ballast tube at this point and then this will give me access with a screwdriver/hex wrench through the ballast tube down to the servo bolt. While i now have some spare bandwidth here are some more detail shots of the build.. Even flap servos can be fitted without blistered servo covers if you get the control surface geometry right and use IDS at the servo end. Virtually no slop and very neat. Flap control surface end. Really nice in-the -mould carbon tunnels perfectly moulded into the top surface of the wing and supplied G10 horns and traditional 2mm clevis in place. In this pic you can also see the quality of the post cured surface finish and the pattern of the very latest UHM spread tow carbon. Remember this is a sub £1k 3.8m competitive f5j model.......
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With the wiring loom out of the way it is now just a case of fitting out the fuselage with servos and getting the rest of the gear in. With the ballast tube in the fuselage there is not any room under the wing for servos. They have to go in the front. With everything up front you have to be careful of getting the right cg. The recommended cg is 98mm which is also quite far forward so you have to put it together with this in mind otherwise you will need tail weight. Here you can see the ballast tube. I decided to maximise the space underneath it by fitting the receiver and then part of the servo tray as far back as possible for cg reasons and also to free space up in the canopy area. No lipo will fit under the ballast tube so i figured best get as much as possible under it for cg reasons. I made up a servo tray that bolts to the bottom of the fuselage so it can be removed to allow the receiver to come out. Also...if you fit servos in the position i have you have to make sure they are mounted low enough so there is still clear access to the ballast tube. Normally i would have used horizontally mounted servos for this but i had 2 vertically mounted servos i wanted to use up so hence the over complicated servo tray. It doesnt need to be like this. Although it does actually work quite well. If i was to fit horizontal servos (which i will be doing from now on) then i would use the hole in the top of the fuselage meant for the ballast bolt to facilitate this. In part b this will become clear. Sorry i am having to split the build up into so many parts but i am working totally of a mobile and i cant compress very easily the images and BARCS website only allows 15mb uploads..
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I think Pichler do them.
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The area that we cut on the Thursday will be bigger to allow for camping but all help is welcome so if you bring your strimmer we can find you a job!
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Been after some of these for a while, everywhere seems to be out of stock.
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Pete last year the area outside the club was not cut except for a road from tar road to club entrance what i want to know is do I add grass trimmer and rake to my camping equipment. Peter
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I did think of that method and sewing a hing. What happened was that the elevator joint just cracked off due to age. (10 plus year old unstarted kit). The elevator could not be used as it was just too flimsy. So I have made a new elevator from balsa which is actually the same weight as the foam one even after a light glassing. As I need a hinge that will allow a spring I have decided to go with an old school method. Two strips of solartex sewn glue side to glue side, backing removed and then heated onto the the top side of the stab and elevator. The elevator then folded over 180 deg and the underside then the lower strip heated onto the underside of the stab and elevator. This should be well strong enough. I have used this on big 7KG plus gassers. The advantage is that if the hinge becomes loose it’s dead easy to either replace or reheat.
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Cheers Frank, I think I worked it out but had been thinking about getting a Taranis for some time
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