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  2. Not hugely experienced yet but have so far found the following: by following the turn started by the thermal kicking one wing up, speed and smooth flying is maintained and one gets quickly round back into the thermal, with the whole model then lifting nicely as you enter it squarely on. Cranking the model the other way - ostensibly the shortest route - seems draggier and risks a slower-speed stall just when you don't want it.
  3. oipigface

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    Bladders can be useful as well. I’ve used bicycle tyres in the past.
  4. satinet

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    Sometimes the dust from the sanding can cause a problem. Get it as much dust as you can. While less glue us better I find it's better to brush some epoxy over the area the cloth is going to go before applying the cloth. Pressure is really the key to getting a good stick though. Heat helps but it makes it go off quicker it doesn't help if the mechanical adhesion isn't good. I use peel ply which allows you to uses layer of tissue or similar to absorb epoxy between the cloth and whatever is giving you the pressure (tape, clasps etc). Doing the inside is harder. Outside you can
  5. Today
  6. Colin is continuously experimenting most things from boom lengths to tail types. Here is his T tail version as flown in the Kent Interclub/ Bartletts competition at Gravesend on Sunday 18th April 2021. Looks especially magnificent at higher altitudes where it was most of time. He won! Photos by Mike Connell
  7. Good point Graham - I hadn't thought of the over weight/overthrust option. What motor/battery do you have in your Purito? In theory the wing nearest the thermal will be experiencing greater angle of attack and so roll away from the lift. I think Martyn is describing where that AOA is so extreme as to cause asymmetric stall then wing drop - which would have the model to appearing to roll towards the thermal. A well designed wing should roll away in most circumstances. Either way you're seeing an indication of where the lift is and you need to get into it. If the roll is extr
  8. Phil.Taylor

    Full-size - gravity launch

    How to launch a glider - just roll it down the hill ! (roll the vid to 1:00 if you're feeling impatient...) I've flown full-size bungee launch off the Long Mynd, but this looks even more fun Phil.
  9. So if the left wing drops you turn right on the basis that the thermal has pushed up the right wing abs turning right should take you into the lift? whereas I do the opposite but probably circle round into it
  10. Forecasts looking OK through weekend, usual thing, I'll make a go or no-go announcement around 6pm Saturday.
  11. Graham Lorimer

    2nd 2021 2m F3-RES, F5-RES 14 day Duration Challenge

    I watch this thread with interest.......... The big downside of allowing an electric to run unlimited altitude with just a motor run timer, is that it would not be difficult to set up a 2 meter RES model that may weigh about 750 - 800 grams, but could possibly climb to 130 meters in the time allowed (ie 20 seconds), and that, on a slightly breezy day would be a winner I have no doubt. My Purito struggles to get to 60 meters in less than 15 seconds, and if you want to get some distance to go with the launch height at 20 seconds, the climb needs to be very accurate. I notice some of th
  12. I am no expert but I always turn into the stall, usually one wing half stalls then drops which is how you describe it.. Others more experienced may have a better explanation
  13. Great to see so many participants. My time of 21mins would have been right up at the top last year question for you. It feels like my MadRES once in a thermal practically flies itself and at the start turns in of its own accord. I thought the strategy was to turn into which ever wing lifts but I have more success continuing the turn opposite to the lifted wing. What are your experiences?
  14. BrianL

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    The bag of hot water is a great idea
  15. martynk

    F3-RES UK Competition Interest

    Hi Jon comments noted. With all postals, there is an element of trust but we do need to keep the competition meaningful. But see my previous reply It would be nice if you (and others) would enter formal competitions when they are run this year. The NW Area (myself and John Minchell) are looking at organising a 4 line F3-RES and F5-RES contest, I think ISA are also doing something and possibly MikeF is putting something on at Buckminster.. One of the benefits of using limiters is that they can be over-ridden if you run into problems down wind.. of course if you do reactivate th
  16. Whitmore

    F3-RES UK Competition Interest

    Yeah, I thought so. You'd need to also have some limit on power to weight and that gets complicated. Just look at F1Q! Maybe a max battery size and a much shorter time limit would work for 2m? I think having a system that doesn't permit restarts makes a psychological difference in the challenge. It could be a get out of jail free card allowing you to follow lift way downwind with the option to bin it as an official flight when you muff it. I think letting electric in is good but it would be nice to keep it super simple if possible to stick with the original aims of beginner friendlin
  17. MikeE

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    Also put any repair under pressure while it dries, and keep it warm. In a big fuselage a bag of hot water, or sand etc may be an option.
  18. martynk

    F3-RES UK Competition Interest

    Hi Jon Need to avoid the powered missiles, otherwise we wouldn't need altitude limiters. For example my 100S RES electric glider will get to 350m in 30 seconds without an altitude limiter. Happy to have a debate on this, the F5-RES rules discussion was primarily to harmonise a meaningful set of English rules with E-RES (we called it F5-RES) flown on the continent. The postal rules for F5-RES could be much simpler (like those for F3-RES). If the 'regulars' are happy with a simple 20 second timer then that would be OK with me,
  19. Whitmore

    F3-RES UK Competition Interest

    The recent electric rules for the 14 Day Challenge are 60m altitude and max 20 seconds run. I missed all the discussion on the F5-RES rules but I would like to see a simpler system allowing entry into the Postal. I thought a free flight timer giving twenty seconds motor run might suffice? A KP Aero timer would be able to handle that for brushless or a Peterborough Timer for brushed. I don't compete in electric though so I may have missed some subtlety that makes an altitude limiter necessary (I have an Altis somewhere but haven't used it.)
  20. Welcome to Brian Taylor, nice to see you here. Updated table.. Now 8.. It would be wonderful if we could get into double figures... (I have almost finished my repairs).
  21. Just posted a question in the other thread https://www.barcs.co.uk/forums/topic/6809-f3-res-uk-competition-interest/?do=findComment&comment=182895 about setting up the launch height/motor-run limits for an electric model for the postal. Would welcome any feedback, especially from Graham who is the only one currently flying electric in the postal. Jon
  22. Phil.Taylor

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    Not really - I usually try & get the vacuum cleaner narrow nozzle in there to clear out all the bits/sandings ! Sand/rough up lots for the new epoxy to grip to - last one I did needed much sanding back to remove a previous badly done repair Phil
  23. BrianL

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    Thanks Phil. I’ve given a section a good sand and there is no smell so must be epoxy. Maybe I didn’t clean/sand the inside sufficiently when I did my adhesion test with epoxy. Will the surface need cleaning with anything as well as sanding? I will search for fuselage repair for more tips Brian
  24. StraightEdge

    F3-RES UK Competition Interest

    Having cut my teeth on the bungee with a 2nd hand PuRES (warps and all!) and hugely enjoying the postal, I'm thinking of buying a second 2m RES model to build myself (clean of draggy warps which fight one another and which performs the same turning left as well as right!) I'm considering electric for this, simply because it would open up more local public launch sites to explore but which aren't suitable for laying out even a small bungee etc. I'm not thinking at this stage of entering actual competition meetings, and so don't want to get involved in installing complicated height/time li
  25. Phil.Taylor

    Epoxy or Polyester Resin

    Most likely to be epoxy - very few manufacturers use polyester sand the inside a bit - then smell it - like John suggested - polyester has a very characteristic smell - epoxy no smell Yes, run/wick thin superglue into the delam areas & cracks. Rough up the inside surfaces with fairly rough sandpaper (or it wont stick) & add glass/epoxy across the breaks. Use laminating epoxy, not epoxy glue. Search & you will find several threads dealing with fuselage repairs. Phil.
  26. It varies quite a bit depending on conditions and the site topography and triggers. Often they are smaller earlier on in the day but get bigger as the sun strengthens. It can depend on wind strength as light winds can allow bigger bubbles to form before triggering. Then you also get 'trouser legs' where smaller thermals join one big chimney. There's a lot going on. But low level tight thermal turns with minimal loss of height are certainly the skill to develop, centring on the core especially. Watching expects like Tony Beckett (sadly no longer with us) working bubbles at deck level was extrem
  27. Just spotted my typo on the date, flight was on the 19th April . Brian
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