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  1. Today
  2. I have just rejoined BARCS (after a gap of nearly 40 years!). I like thermal soaring off bungee, tow line or winch and electrically assited thermal soaring. Does anyone know of a club in the area of Cambridge that supports these interests? I am currently a member of Impington Village College Model Flying Club. It is a very friendly and varied club, but without a suitable site for larger soarers (anything over 2m). Similarly I have been in contact with the South Cambridge club, but they have a height limit of 400ft. I'd be quite happy to travel a bit if I could get to a good site. I'd be happy to join another club as well. Thanks for any responses. George Adam
  3. A brand new Tempest 2,75m carbon layup £870 including postage. https://www.practicalrc.com/tempest Tempest 2.75m (Sports (with f3f in mind)) Wing Area - 50dm2 Horizontal Tail Area - 5dm2 Wingspan - 2750mm Max flying weight - 4120g Airfoils - custom, multiple optomized wing foils (f3f in mind). Wing servo bays: - 55mm x 46mm, for 10mm thick servos for both flaps and ailerons. Elevator servo bay: - 38mm x 41mm for a Servo up to 12mm thick. Wing Joiner: - 36mm x 12mm x 375mm total length. Wing Ballast tubes: - 2x 10.5mm x 20.6mm x 249mm
  4. A brand new Tempest 2,75m carbon layup £870 including postage. https://www.practicalrc.com/tempest Tempest 2.75m (Sports (with f3f in mind)) Wing Area - 50dm2 Horizontal Tail Area - 5dm2 Wingspan - 2750mm Max flying weight - 4120g Airfoils - custom, multiple optomized wing foils (f3f in mind). Wing servo bays: - 55mm x 46mm, for 10mm thick servos for both flaps and ailerons. Elevator servo bay: - 38mm x 41mm for a Servo upto 12mm thick. Wing Joiner: - 36mm x 12mm x 375mm total length. Wing Ballast tubes: - 2x 10.5mm x 20.6mm x 249mm
  5. slopelope

    Baudis DNA Racer GPS

    White trim is all vinyl and easily removed so wings match tails.
  6. Selling for a friend. He may make more if enough interest shown. They are very nice indeed!! SumoSuit for F3F/F3B gliders, padded, lined and shower proof. Fear not when your partner loads your precious models into the car, double padded fuz bag and tail feather sleeves. Will fit most f3f style gliders. Now you can stack them high.. £46 delivered
  7. Yesterday
  8. Baldyslapnut

    Infinity Evo F5J GPS Special

    Sorry it has sold. I will mark the advert as such.
  9. Justin Mellor

    Small z-bends in fine wire

    Yes - put the wire in a vice with just a very small length protruding. Knock that over at 90 degrees perpendicular to the vice jaws. Remove the wire from the vice and put the end of the wire, with the 90 degree bend, into the jaws and clamp as shown in the picture below. Then knock that over at 90 degrees perpendicular to the vice jaws. You will now have two 90 degree bends close together, but the two bends will be in different axes. This is often fine for servo linkages. In order to create a proper Z-bend from this, you will need to clamp both of the bends between the faces of the vice jaws to flatten them out, then tweak them a little to get the bends to 90 degree again. Hope this helps - works for me - Justin
  10. If I used a 1s lipo to power Rx and servos, like I do in my F3RES, can I power the CAM from the ESC and 3s battery? All the installs I've seen, the CAM is powered from the RX.
  11. oipigface

    Small z-bends in fine wire

    I’ve got a pair of pliers that will make Z-bends of about 3/16” but I want to make some about 1/3 that size. Does anyone know how to do this?
  12. Mark P

    Fastest day out I can remember

    Some more of Mr Fram's handiwork. My toys flown on the day: Masterpiece, Ultima & Avatar
  13. julianb

    Infinity Evo F5J GPS Special

    Is she still available?
  14. Mikeb52

    Fastest day out I can remember

    Rat salad… Black Sabbath fan, like me?
  15. Phil.Taylor

    Dear Diary

    Aer-o-tec Delphin - 3.9m span electric soarer http://www.aer-o-tec.de/en/index.php/delphin/ Phil.
  16. Andy_B

    Fastest day out I can remember

    Trees/snow sunsets race cars
  17. The 30A (yes – too big) ESC is to the right, covered in red heat shrink. The wire is the one sticking up, that goes to the Altis. The ESC is a Blheli-S and is internally wired from the 2 battery pads. I may use a smaller (20A) esc and re-wire, so the plus and minus wires are long enough to reach the Rx. The white one will then be the only wire going to Altis. On the other side of the Altis, it will plug in as normal. It may be better (and lighter) to wire the Altis directly to the esc, via just the white lead.
  18. I went out for a fly (last week) and my motor would not finish priming. Hence it would not run. I went back inside and found (then) that nothing would work – dead ! I then removed the Altis and took the covering off. The orange / yellow wire was off and was clearly detached from the board. Further investigation revealed that the brown wire was also off. I can fully understand how that happened. The 3 wires are all together (usual 3 wire lead). The wire goes straight into the board – BUT – the 3 wires are also held together by a silicon band (see photo). After each session I usually pull the Altis out and connect to computer for a reading. Each time you flex the wires, both pulling out and replacing, the soldered copper wire is notoriously bad for work hardening, hence that very short length of soldered wire is brittle and it will snap (Shame on me for not seeing this before it snapped). **The garbage used for leads now (I bet) is not as good as real Copper. Then I had the task of re-soldering !!!!!! It is a very small unit, the wire is really close to the screen – well, I sent it back, I did not like the idea of doing it. I have no problems with even very small components, I have the tiny soldering iron and solder paste (which is better). I really would have liked to do the work – I would have made all the wires the exact right length. When it comes back, I will have split the 3 wires (between esc and Altis) into signal going to one plug and plus and minus (on a longer lead) to another. The signal going to Altis and the 2 power wires directly to Rx. On the other side of the Altis, the 3 wires (as normal) will go to the Rx. Should that (to Altis) get flexed (and broken) it will only stop the motor. The power to the Rx will not be constantly moved and flexed and hence not affected. I am on 2S and all else is HV, so really it is all just connected to the battery. There is NO bec / sbec to fail. If you have a bec, then it is just the same, but with the extra failure point. It is now a week and no message from AerobTec.......... It may be a while !
  19. Thanks all. A separate battery would be a good idea, but it's a trade off with space and weight on these small light RES models. And as John pointed out, UBEC not guaranteed to provide peace of mind. I very much prefer the simplicity of F3RES but appreciate the advantages of F5RES.
  20. RC Electronics RC Multi 3 here.
  21. Ian F3F

    Fastest day out I can remember

    and the lucky subject of your home photography 40 years ago:-)
  22. Cirrus I will not be using an Altis Nano, but the RC electronics Altimeter #2 Basic. But it has the same function of height or time cut off to the motor. Having suffered a full set of 10 servos and a receiver burnt out from a failed ubec, I will always now use a separate battery to supply the power to Rx and servos in any competition airframe. Pays your money etc. John M
  23. A placeholder for the 12th 2021 F3-RES/F5-RES Combined 14 day duration postal. This is an experimental event and the rules may be altered for subsequent challenges. Please submit your score below. The 14 day clock will start when the first score is submitted and will restart if and when the current high score has been beaten. This is a for fun challenge for UK based pilots, anyone may enter with EITHER 1. a bungee-launched glider up to 2 metres wingspan and the standard Hi-Start can post a time. The standard Hi-Start bungee is a maximum of 10m of 6/4mm surgical tubing and 50m of static line (minimum 30lb breaking strain). Lighter/smaller bungee rubber may be used. OR 2. an Electric motor launched glider up to 2 metre wingspan fitted with an Altitude Limiter set to 60m and a maximum motor run time of 20 seconds. Object: Fly your 2 metre wingspan glider for as long as possible from a flat field, the person who's time is unbeaten for 14 days 'wins' and a new challenge starts. Rules: Flight times begin when line releases from the tow-hook or in the case of an electric motor powered glider, 20 seconds after the hand launch. The model must land in the launch field for times to count. While the object is to encourage F3/F5-RES types, any model up to 2 metre span may be flown (F3/F5-RES, foam, R/E mouldie) but please state the type of model with your time. Note that ailerons or other camber changing devices fitted are no longer permitted, even if disabled. All scoring flights must start with a hand release from Ground Level No Flight information telemetry permitted except for Received signal strength and Receiver battery status. Fly safely! No slope soaring
  24. New postal started...
  25. I use the Altis Nano. I wasn't aware of any problems. I program it from my PC using the app and have had no problems with either of the Altis devices that I have. I don't use a separate uBec.
  26. Updated Table - post 1
  27. Hello. Some questions for the F5RES flyers. 1. I assume you are all using the Altis height limiter? The nano? 2. What are the golden rules for setting up the Altis? I've read too many reports where model loss was attributed to incorrect wiring and setup of Altis. 3. Do you use a separate ubec in these models for redundancy in case ESC fails? Thanks
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