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satinet

Avalon Build (but not flight....) Log

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satinet

Shorten the servo wires as Mr blue bird kindly provides a 6foot length on each servo..... I crimp my own connectors.

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satinet

Potting the wing servo looms with e6000 goop. 

The model has a quite large ballast tube - if you do nothing the wiring loom will stop the wing joiner going through the hole.  Common problem - solution in this case - bits of foam. 

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satinet

Said ballast tube is nice but it means the back vtail pushrod wants to go round quite a sharp conner. As I am using small servos - bms107hv, I decided to move the pocket over a bit. 

I use screws from model fixings that have a hex head - miles better than the tiny little rubbish screws you get with servos that don't fit any screw driver in the known world.

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satinet

On to the tail - this model comes with a rod for each tail - this is similar to the tail on a skorpion or extreme, but is removable from both the fuselage and the tailess themselves.

I am not really in love with this arrangement type, but it is what it is. After having read a thread rc-network I decided to glue the rods in as I could not see a practical way of preventing wobble.  I also need to adjust the holes with a flat file as out of the box the tail was slightly out of alignment with the wings in the horizontal plane. On the bottom pic you can see a sliver of wood wedged in to keep the correct position while the glue dried. (Vtail angle is 98 degrees).

N.b I also glued inside a 3mm round carbon tube for a bit of extra strengthening.  The joiner was then sanded back to match the fuselage - a little over sanding, but it's okay...

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satinet

Now to the nose weight - you can't make a shaped block and glue it in in the traditional way here - near the end of the nose are small ridges where I assume the end of the balloon that was used in the layup ended or where part. of the layup ends.  (I've had this on other models).  Normally I would probably wet pour lead in anyway, but I don't have access to a blow torch or camping stove at the moment, I wasn't melting any lead anyway. I didn't think using the magnetic induction hob would go down very well.

In fact there is hardly any space between the end of the battery and the tip of the nose anyway, if you push the 18650 pack right forward. The battery can come back towards the servos, but I didn't want to do this as it would interfere with where I want to place my vario (home built from RC-thoughts).  

So i chopped up some lead bits. First I injected about 12g of hot 30minute epoxy and chucked the bits in while tapping the nose on the floor.  Most of the lead will go in over/around the battery in strips - there is reasonable room for this, so no problem.  

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