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Radicalisation


wookman

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Phil.Taylor
14 hours ago, wookman said:

Whoops. More mending opportunities. 

407E51F8-C7D5-4FDD-82C4-A1B6A45C674F.jpeg

Oops...

Just needs the same treatment as the Acacia - now you've practiced it'll be easy(ier)

Use carbon this time - skinny fus

Phil.

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2 hours ago, wookman said:

Hi Andy. Don't quite get what you have done there, any chance of a bit of verbage by way explanation please.

I have a feeling you might have misinterpreted my post (not all that clear having re-read it), the cracks are in the joiner on the front where the joiner exits the fuselage / enters the wing box.

I think he has, too. But the tip is one worth following. Cheers, Andy.

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  • 1 month later...

New joiner sourced from Martin Weberschock. Thanks to Greg for helping with the transport. Just needs a minor bit of fettling to get the correct fit. It’s close but not quite there. Must sort out the fuselage now!

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  • 3 months later...

Started on the Radical nose today. Strip out the gear and have a go at straightening the nose. There is no way to get it back straight because of the form of the break. The nose was only hanging on by half of the remaining side so a short bit of surgery with a nice sharp Swan Morton no 10 and we have a two piece fuselage. Drastic? Well no not really. It was 4/5 of the way to being off anyway. The control runs were bent in the prang and need sorting out. Also I can look at installing a crutch to help with the bending strength of the very skinny fuselage. The fuselage has obviously been repaired here before so it will be an interesting job to repair it better and stronger so that hopefully it doesn’t break there again. 

7E8E9660-36F0-4F6C-9C52-BD42F8498B64.jpeg

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Best of luck with that Graham! I can never make up my mind how best to tackle breaks that are really close to wing seat, so I’ll be interested to see what you come up with. First off, I’d be thinking of an extended servo tray, but there’s probably a ballast tube in the way.

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Not sure what to do with that strange doubler inside the fuselage that doesn’t really fit. It’s the bit on the back of the nose section. It has bits of thin ply added to it as packers to fit the rear of the fuselage. 

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That looks like an attempt at an internal repair. 

I have never liked putting in internal tubes etc, mainly as it's very hard to make them stick well.

I think I would break that all away before putting the nose back in place, initially with cyano tack. Even if pieces are missing. Remove completely any servo tray and fit a new former that extends back across the break. 

Once it's solid enough to work on , I would then sand it right down removing as much as I could but leaving enough to allow new patches of glass cloth to be added. Possibly in lots of small pieces initially so as to build layers.before adding larger pieces and adding pressure and heat. Hopefully rebuilding into similar number of layers to the original, by replacing old glass with new, and feathering into the old stuff. 

 

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  • 2 months later...

It always looks a bit drastic at this stage.

The most difficult bit for me is the cosmetic finish after the repair.

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That looks like it never stuck very well to the old fuselage, as I said above, I don't thin internal sleeving is the best method, unless you have a very good way to put the pressure in there.

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I found exactly that (getting enough pressure in there) and used a bike innertube doubled up, a latex one (thinner) and wrapped cling film round it as well to help prevent it sticking. Wrapped the nose in film then taped the joint with fibre reinforced tape before inflating using a decent pump. This stopped the inflation from opening the joint being repaired. Worked really well, I have some pics or a thread somewhere. 

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5 hours ago, heli_bee said:

It always looks a bit drastic at this stage.

The most difficult bit for me is the cosmetic finish after the repair.

making it look nice on the outside can cover up all sorts of nastieness on the inside 

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I agree. I have been caught out like that, but a good repair followed by a decent paint job always makes for a greater feeling of accomplishment.

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I've done both inner and outer. I would suggest you do the outer. It's a lot easier to do a good job. After all, all you are trying to donis replace the part that's broken, so grind it down and replace. 

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The plan at the moment is to run a carbon ply crutch horizontally back across the break. Get the nose back on and then grind off the outside and build it up again. Unless of course any of you have a better idea. 

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12 hours ago, wookman said:

The plan at the moment is to run a carbon ply crutch horizontally back across the break. Get the nose back on and then grind off the outside and build it up again. Unless of course any of you have a better idea. 

Good plan. Have you considered a vertical stiffener as well? There may not be room of course.

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I have, but I haven't come to a conclusive view on it yet. Might be time for some experimenting with cardboard, Blue Peter style, to see how it might work.

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Worth considering if you should leave an element of crumpe zone. 

For example, it easy to make the fuselage solid between the front wing incident pins, but if you do this you may scrap your wings instead of the fuselage in the next rough landing. 

IMO try to go back as close as possible to its original build. Similar number of layers and similar cloth. If you can get it all together and lined up using a crutch it would make it easy to sand back and re layer with patches of new cloth. 

Perhaps make the crutch out  insulation board so  you can break it out once it's done its job. Potentially with some foam board you could make a complete inner.

Stick it in the back bit and shape the front to allow the front to be pushed into place. Perhaps around 50mm long, it would then give you something to press the layers of cloth down onto. 

Break it all out once it's done

 

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