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Extremism


wookman

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Spent a little time this morning working out how to shoehorn a five cell pack of AAs, a receiver and the wiring into the remaining space in the fuselage. Conclusion: there ain't much space in there! Also looking at replacing the wiring in the fuselage as it has been damaged in the joiner aperture by being pinched between the joiner and the fuselage side and  one of the connectors has been replaced so there is a joint in the cable. With a little bit more length in the cables I could route them backwards from the plug and round under the ballast tube and so well away from the joiner apertures. Mind you getting them threaded through the fuselage with that sewer pipe of ballast tube in there is not going to be easy! Wish me luck.

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Another tube has gone in for aerial routing and a plate in the bottom of the fuselage for the Velcro to help anchor the battery.  

Who ever dreamt up the wire in the tube with magnets on the outside to hold the tube in place whilst the glue sets, genius. 

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Battery and rx installation on the bench. Foam tube to hold the spacer dowel in place. Spacer dowel to prevent the battery breaking out of the fuselage in the event of an instantaneous deceleration of the airframe. Foam pad to protect the wiring on the battery. The battery is velcroed to the fuselage floor and wedged in with a bit of foam. Rx is velcroed to the battery. It is all a very snug fit in the Extreme fuselage. 

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On 13/06/2020 at 10:59, wookman said:

Spent a little time this morning working out how to shoehorn a five cell pack of AAs, a receiver and the wiring into the remaining space in the fuselage. Conclusion: there ain't much space in there!

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Couldn’t add comment to last post for some mysterious reason. What I wanted to point out is that two Life batteries (18275’s if I remember aright) fit nicely into mine with enough room for all the other gubbins.

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I did consider putting such a Life battery in but I have good service from Eneloops over the years. They seem to suit my sporadic flying sessions and charging regime. All the Li technology seem to be more touchy about how the are looked after. I did look at using a four cell pack but a two by two square pack of AAs will not go through the canopy aperture so it would have to be a flat long two by two pack. the fifth cell sits in the redundant space forward of the canopy so is not eating into any useful space. Just makes it a bit more awkward to get it in place. the five cell pack in the Falcon worked well in the Falcon when it had all 5125s in the wing, they were quicker and hunted a lot less, didn't maintain a centre any better though! The ailerons have been swapped out for KST135s but I haven't got round to swapping the flap servos yet so they still need the sub trims tweeking almost for each flight!

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As a change from glueing stuff, this morning I have been soldering stuff.  The old wiring harness was removed from the fuselage. Strings were pulled through the fuselage on the ends of the wires so they can be used to pull the new harness in back in. The multiplex greenies were salvaged and new cables soldered on. This got rid of the replaced plug and the pinched wire. Whilst the soldering iron was out I also made a “switch”. 

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4 hours ago, wookman said:

Strings were pulled through the fuselage on the ends of the wires so they can be used to pull the new harness in back in.

I only ever remember to do that after I’ve pulled the old wires out.

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2 minutes ago, oipigface said:

I only ever remember to do that after I’ve pulled the old wires out.

Think twice, act once. 

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Been there, done that! That is what happened to wing joiner for the Extreme. Having found it again, completely by accident, I now can't remember where I found it. Probably just as well because if I put anything there again I will not be able to find it! The wing joiner now lives in one of the wings.

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Graham,

Be careful with soldered connections on plugs like that , the solder wicks down the cable and if they have constant movement (like a switch)  they tend to fracture where the solder ends  and its normally kept together with the heat shrink.First thing youll know is when it all stops working .

I dont solder plugs on now because of this and always crimp my own.

 

Andy

 

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I understand what you are saying Andy B. I have never had this happen to me but.... Unfortunately I do not have crimping capabilities here at the wookworks, it is something I need to invest in perhaps. 

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There are tools which crimp the conductor clamp and the insulation clamp in one go.  Here's one..

https://www.nexusmodels.co.uk/powerbox-crimping-tool-professional-7100.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxJXOkIiH6gIVgbHtCh31eAWxEAQYASABEgKxufD_BwE

The one shot device is set up for a certain conductor diameter to insulation diameter ratio.

I prefer the two stage approach - clamp conductor first and make sure you've got it (tug test).  Then clamp the insulation.  You can adjust your technique to accommodate different insulation thicknesses.

I use a PA-09 like this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ENGINEER-pa-09-Universal-Crimping-Tool/dp/B002AVVO7K/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=54355508838&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqq6Dh4iH6gIV24BQBh3ozwJ9EAAYASAAEgKXH_D_BwE&hvadid=259068393548&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9045826&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4600782006805219736&hvtargid=kwd-488613657272&hydadcr=28146_1752652&keywords=pa-09+crimp&qid=1592335775&sr=8-2&tag=googhydr-21

 

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This poster, meant for industry use I assume, shows some useful pointers.

https://www.jst-services.co.uk/docs/good crimping.pdf

You can get sets of connectors and wire from lots of places.  I use the specialist model suppliers where possible.  
Beware of the two standards of male/female identification.

Many people call the connector on the left below, ‘female’, because the housing on the right slides inside the housing on the left.  Electronics people call the connector on the left, 'male', because the conductor pins in the housing go inside the sockets in the right hand connector.
The two little adaptor cables in the picture are the kind of thing you'll soon be making.....

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I’ve got three or four crimping tools and I don’t use any of them for servo wire. I find a pair of needle nose pliers does the job well for me, but it’s taken a lot of practice to get confident.

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Thank you for the crimping info. 

Threaded the new fuselage harness into place using the draw strings that were put in as the old harness came out. Looping the cables backwards in the fuselage has allowed them to go past the wing joiner apertures down next to the ballast tube. A little bit of foam wedged in will stop the cables getting into the aperture making rigging the Extreme reasonable Wookproof. 

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Glued in one of the fuselage plugs using the wing and joiner as a jig. Just pushed the wing on far enough for the plug and incidence pins to engage without closing up the gap. The wing and fuselage combo was stood on the wing tip to allow the epoxy to set. The gap was left so that the epoxy that runs out of the fuselage doesn't stick the wing on or the plug and socket together. I will do the other one tomorrow. 

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