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Phil.Taylor

Going electric - e-shadow fus with xpro wings. All sorts of questions but heres a really basic one.

Which type of Lipo  battery/ESC connnectors do folks use - and why?

Phil.

 

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pete beadle

Hi Phil

4MM bullets - I've used them for years on all my electric models and no problems evident - advantages? all my (3S) lipos are interchangeable with every model they fit:thumbsup::yes:

Regards

Pete

BARCS1702

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isoaritfirst

If it's points you are going to make and break  _ Problems come when you buy batteries. 

You then have the choice to change your leads to match or change the new batteries to match your leads. 

I suggest you buy your batteries then make your leads to suit.

 Separate bananas plugs can occasionally catch exposed bits of each other and short but if it's motor to esc when it's staying put and they offer space savings. 

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I know you will have a 3s 2200mAh or similar battery. Most suppliers around this capacity fit XT60 connectors so if you don't use those you will be removing them and then soldering another different type on. Not worth it in my opinion. As a sport flyer with this model you shouldn't have any usage wear or softening of the connection pin but occasionally check to see if the gap on the cross cut pin still exists and not closed up. 

 

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The XT60's which come as standard on most Hobbyking batteries are fine but you might find they are a bit big and sometimes they are a struggle to fit in a restricted space, in which case swapping to bullet connectors helps. If you use bullets I'd recommend covering the connectors with some end caps to avoid possible shorts when transporting them https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-End-Caps-End-Covers-for-Tubes-Rods-Threads-rubber-plastic/252771936113?hash=item3ada61a771:g:EEsAAOSwr~lYokno   or use tape/ heatshrink etc.  4mm bullets are quite long and sometimes need wires cutting more precisely to fit, 5mm-6mm are shorter but fatter, but can be easier to get into smaller spaces sometimes. 

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thermaldoctor

RC pro plus supra X 

Why? Because they have good current capability and they have a nice final click when they get pushed fully home so you can monitor their connection quality very easily.

And electric heli pilots use them where a bad connection is instant destruction.

Beware XT60. Nice connector and fully capable but you may loose the feel of a good electrical connection over time due to snug fit of plastic housing. The splayed out males can lose grip over time.

When metal has to compress on connection and then decompress on disconnection many many times over it is good to know when you connect it will be sound. You can't always get this with XT60s.

Continually check and splay out the males when necessary of the XT60 

 

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2 hours ago, Nicholls said:

I know you will have a 3s 2200mAh or similar battery. Most suppliers around this capacity fit XT60 connectors so if you don't use those you will be removing them and then soldering another different type on. Not worth it in my opinion. As a sport flyer with this model you shouldn't have any usage wear or softening of the connection pin but occasionally check to see if the gap on the cross cut pin still exists and not closed up. 

 

Yes as a sports flyer, might as well stick to the XT60's as supplied. I have used EC3 3.5 connectors for some time now, rather than using straight bullet connectors, as the chance of shorting out due to being covered(as they are on XT60's) is minimal. An additional add on is that I then attach a Futaba type connector to the + & - on the battery connector, that plugs into a Ubec, so I can check out the servos without having the ESC connected, to power the motor plus if a cell goes down on the battery, there will still be some power there to get the model down.

BARCS 230

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15 hours ago, Phil.Taylor said:

Going electric - e-shadow fus with xpro wings. All sorts of questions but heres a really basic one.

Which type of Lipo  battery/ESC connnectors do folks use - and why?

Phil.

 

You might want to consider a separate battery for the RX and servo's, good insurance policy should anything go wrong with the motor/ esc/ battery 

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2 hours ago, thermaldoctor said:

RC pro plus supra X 

Why? Because they have good current capability and they have a nice final click when they get pushed fully home so you can monitor their connection quality very easily.

And electric heli pilots use them where a bad connection is instant destruction.

Beware XT60. Nice connector and fully capable but you may loose the feel of a good electrical connection over time due to snug fit of plastic housing. The splayed out males can lose grip over time.

When metal has to compress on connection and then decompress on disconnection many many times over it is good to know when you connect it will be sound. You can't always get this with XT60s.

Continually check and splay out the males when necessary of the XT60 

 

Are they available in the UK Neil?

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It must be 20 years ago that I started using Schulze 3.5mm connectors. I used their esc's and I was zapping and matching NiCad batteries, so made the leads.

Back then they were expensive and when you wanted more, they were posted from Germany. They never let me down and were simple to fit – Why would I change ? The male goes on positive battery lead and the female on the negative. Heat-shrink on all exposed bits. As soon as the battery goes in the model, the exposed male on the positive lead is connected to the esc, so nothing can short.

When you want to go, simply plug in the black negative lead. After a flight, reach down, remove the canopy and with one hand, pop apart the black lead – simple.

Then – I watch people pick up their model, sort of put it under their arm and with both hands pry apart the connector. All the while, their Tx is just waiting to have the throttle knocked open............ Can't happen ?

Schulze stated that you should remove the “cage” for soldering. That is awkward and (for me) involves a scalpel and a jewellers loupe. I now use an old female (with the wire) on a board and wet tissue round it – seems to work. I have also been known to slash open the standard plastic cases, because I have run out.

I also use 4mm for other things, including chargers. I have tried to use 4mm but they are just too big in my models.

BatCon.JPG

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Phil.Taylor

Many thanks for the replies

Looks like it will be Lipos with XT60s as supplied - with occasional checks on the contacts

Bit of background - I last built an electric fus way back in 1998 - for my old 100inch thermal soarer wings, which I designed & built way way back in 1974 (!). I also wanted to carry a camera for aerial photos - small 35mm film camera (!) It flew great, but landing with the added weight & no spoilers was a bit tricky. Brushed geared motor, Nicad batteries. The batteries always came with Tamiya connectors, which I always replaced with bullet connectors - was never 100% happy about the possibility of them shorting out though. It was last flown back in about 2004 - the fus finally went in the bin when we moved a few years ago - hadnt been used for years & I'm usually flying from a slope these days, often thermal soaring with a slope start. But - after a recent house move, theres a local rural/country common just 10mins walk up the road - with a clearing large enough to fly an electric out of - so renewed interest - and of course things have moved on - brushless motors, Lipos - and different connectors available - hence the question - I know that whatever I choose thats the way it will be for other future electrics.

Phil.

post-1785-0-46301100-1416584120_thumb.jpg

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As others have pointed out be carefull if using xt60 or xt30  .

I wrote off a model whilst competing at the last EC .Due to male pins that had closed in .

It happened during the launch phase in very windy conditions,the battery moved slightly In low level turbulence allowing the esc to reboot .ie lack off power long enough for the model to bury its self .

( now days I always use a back up system) 

Recently I asked friends within the FB community what they thought about XT 30 plugs as  increasing numbers of lipos are supplied with them .

Some friends whose judgement I trust suggested replacing xt30 and xt60 with Kontronic silver plated male /female plugs .

The only place I could find that had them in stock is Höllein in Germany  ( they are an excellent on line model shop and I buy from them often) 

These plugs / sockets are very different to anything I have used previously and I am so impressed by the contact that I have changed over exclusively.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That's a very useful discussion for me.  Thanks to all of you.  When I came back to this hobby I started with a Bixler and an Overlander lipo which came with a Deans plug.  I've been using them ever since without a hint of a problem.  That was until Deans stopped making, or at least distributing them, this year.  I've never liked or trusted the Deans copies so I have been looking out for an alternative, now that my stock of Deans has run out. 

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  • 2 months later...
andyharrold

I watched a large Ava get launched at Fish Meadow about 3 years ago. Climbed up to about 50 feet and then went total loss of signal/ motor power.

It circled down and landed 10m from the Severn.

The cause was loose fitting bullet connectors.

 

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aduncan

This thread has given me food for thought. I've been using XT60s and 30s for a while now without problems. They are however hard pull apart in a hurry, and seem to take up more space than bullets. There is also the risk of damaging the model while doing so.

I searched for the amp rating of the various connector types and found something odd. The data I found was 3.5 mm bullets 40 amps, XT60 60 amps and 4mm bullets 70 amps. Seemed that 4mm bullets had a higher rating than the 4mm connectors in XT60s. Then I had a thought, I got a 4mm bullet and found it did not fit the XT60. Then I found that a 3.5mm bullet fitted perfectly. Seems odd that the same size of bullet can carry more current in a plastic housing with little heat dissipation, the 3.5 connectors with only heat shrink on them.

So I have ordered some 3.5 connectors from Overlander for a long soldering session!

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Stormeflyer

I would also consider the quality of the soldering and whilst I am not saying this was the scenario of failures, I’ve seen some soldering jobs both DIY and Retail that are shocking, no pun intended.

The standard of certain shop bought standard switches for instance having pinched wiring or dry joints or wire strand “shorts” is more common than you think.

Thats why a good quality DC switch is expensive compared to some others.

You have to contend with vibration and resonance in an E-Model, a dry joint or poor soldering is going to eventually give out even if it’s momentarily it could lead to disaster.

This is a very well presented tutorial

https://dronenodes.com/drone-soldering-tutorial/

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