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Pike goes electric


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So that's where I left it a month ago, Glider version still waiting to meet up with Les who has offered to clear coat the nose for me in 2k.

Through January I was happily engrossed in fitting out the alternative electric fuselage.

As standard the servo plate is an easy fit if you are happy to run the servos through a BEC off the main flight battery.

The main flight battery can be fitted either through the canopy opening or by removing the nose if the battery size is too large to squeeze through.

For competition flying off the flat a small flight pack could be used comfortably and recharged before each flight, but for sports flying using a small pack mean's little comfort when soaring for a few hours after a motor run.

I decided to try to fit a receiver battery and I already had a 2s pack of 18500 cells that were ideal. 18500 are shorter than 18650's.

 

 

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Green tails are from my former Pike and save having to switch tailplanes over when changing the fuselage from the glider version.

 

Picture shows the supplied servo tray. This is designed to slide down into the fuselage to sit behind the wing joiner. Servos sitting inverted and height adjusted by a screw into the captive nut that is between the servos. I had removed the front captive nut in the photo. Normal set up is for a screw and spacer tube to fit through from the bottom of the fuselage top secure the servo plate.

 

Second version I made to accommodate the 18500 receiver pack. Rear captive nut has gone and a vertical ply former fitted to fix the plate height at its rearmost point.

 

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Lines show fuselage and wing joiner slot, nose would be to the right in the picture. fixing bolt at the front. 18500 cell in place sitting just behind the joiner slot.

All a bit scruffy in the picture as it had been reworked several times. Final version was tidied up a little

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Receiver battery pack can be slid into place and removed once everything is in place.

Side cheeks on the plate add strength and help to protect the wing plug wiring when pushing the batter in .

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It does take some time to get all the wiring in place and safely possitioned.

I also added a magnetic switch, that sits just infront of this plate under the wing root.

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Tenshock motor fitted and 2400 3 cell lipo that fits through the canopy opening.

I have, since the photo was taken revisited the wiring and shortened all to ease the congestion.

15gms of nose weight will give me a 97cg and the flight battery sitting nicely back in a secure location. 

Without the nose weight it will still be a safe cg, and of course battery could slide forward slightly.

 

Not flown yet, still waiting on the correct blades for the prop, and some suitable weather, but glad that I have managed to fit everything in and found a solution that works for anyone that wishes to run with a receiver pack. Easy enough to do now we know the CG works out and that there is sufficient room for the flight pack. Standard servo plate is used as initial template for the revised one.

The overall weight shown on the gauge includes all the printed ballast spacers (100gm).

My model is also the Samba Pike Precision 2 in their TOP version, so isn't the best weight option for thermalling around with.

 

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Many thanks to Neil Jones at Flightech for his support and advice in coming to these solutions.

 

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oipigface

There's some head scratching has gone into that, Mike! Hope it goes well.

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70A Drone ESC soldered directly onto motor. No BEC.

Battery connection lead soldered on so that it runs back over the ESC into the nose area. This gives a soft lead to connect the battery to.

Aerials put into a partially split tube, with one Hot glued to bottom of fuselage.

Marks on Battery top show CG options. Leads taped back to battery to add strength when pulling on them removing the battery.

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Plenty of room for the wires with the battery this far back but model does require a small amount of nose weight for this battery position.

 

 

 

 

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Lastly - I hope!

Due to difficulty buying another flight battery, I have made a lead to couple a couple of Turnigy  3s 90C 1000mah packs I have.

So hopefully 2000mah. I had to grind the JST plugs off leaving just the bullets to connect to. The JST plugs are convenient but very bulky. Running them on the belt sander the cutting the last bit off with a Stanley blade worked well in removing them.

These small batteries are also used in my Solius so I didnt wish to solder them together as a single pack.

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A word to the wise... Change the battery terminal connectors so that you cannot inadvertently connect the batteries together in reverse polarity. Surprisingly easy to make a mistake that could cost you a pair of batteries at the very least otherwise.

 

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Fair comment Jeff, done that way so I can still use them into a JST when using in the Solius.  

They will require care.

I did once connect a + to -  on a single battery where I had male and female banana plugs. Pushed the two wires together by mistake. 

Nothing escapes stupid. 😳

I guess making it easy to make mistakes can create a requirement to take it carefully. 

We will see.

 

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Make a point of never connecting indoors then (so that you can safely throw the burning battery pack a safe distance).

 

 

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Why have you gone for two packs?

I’m just waiting for the prop and I’m good to go. I’m actually a bit nervous, big electric props scare me!

K

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They are batteries I already have Kev.

The cells I ordered from hobby king have got lost in the post. 

Gives Potential to use a single pack if I wish to go lighter.

Generally the single 2400 pack I have will be first choice.

What battery have you gone with and does it fit through the canopy or require the nose to be taken off?

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I would like to chuck it off a hill and turn on when in safe air.

But I don't have a hill, so need to find a nice remote field with no dog walkers, kids, trees, rocks, motorbikes, turbulence, cattle, irate farmers, and probably the hardest at the moment no swamps. 

Think I have all my excuses in a row. 

Big props scare me too. 

😳

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Dick Whitehead
1 hour ago, MikeE said:

..........................................

Big props scare me too. 

😳

Being scared of props is a good thing - it helps keep your fingers away from them at all times when the battery is connected 👍

What size have you gone for?

Dick

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Dick Whitehead

Sounds promising..

The only 17x8 I have is on a Sebart Pitts biplane on 6s, but I have just looked at my data logs and it is doing 6,600 rpm at 688 watts (at part throttle!) even with the big radial cowl behind the prop adding drag, so the performance data looks realistic as I would expect given the source.

It will be fine. Looking forward to hearing about the maiden once you have run out of excuses 🙂

Dick

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