RustyKnee Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 hi chapsI have ordered a Ceres f3f. Has anyone got a setup to get me going with? I could do a generic setup and go from there, but a head start is always nice. Are you guys using the suggested cg from the assembly PDF?Cheers,Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jon_s Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 start with jiri's settings there not far off. You can move the cg back a couple of mm from the baudis sheet. There a very rewarding model to fly. Love both my versions. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Jon_s said: start with jiri's settings there not far off.You can move the cg back a couple of mm from the baudis sheet.There a very rewarding model to fly.Love both my versions.Jon.Hi Jon, I am hoping it comes with a sheet then as I haven't found one online. Will find out next week Cheers fella Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jon_s Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Stu, I seem to remember that I have around 20-ish° of aileron movement each way for racing and the flaps move about half that or even a 3rd.Elevator is around 6mm up and down, and rudder is 10mm up and down.Thermal mode, I have around 3° of thermal flap and the ailerons differential is something like, 15° up and 5° down.Elevator for thermalling is around 4-5mm.Snap flap I have around 6-7°, could be more could be less.start with c/g around 110mm and move back to suit. Look here --> for build instructions, there a doddle http://www.baudismodel.com/dow.....es-f3b.pdf Hope that this helps, and dont be scarred of it either. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Cheers Jon,Looks similar setings to my existing two now. I used to use 8mm for ele, but 6mm is more than enough and safer for racing.It is nice to see build instructions for one of these even though it is farily simple. Looks like no sub spar grindage for linkages either! nice.Will try not to be scared of it, this is the most I have spent on a glider though...first brand spanker (although tragi was virtually brand new and unbuilt). She is for racing....cant can't be a jessy about it if I want to get more competetive...although I will try and learn her a biit before trying to wipe my nose with the wing tip :)CheersStu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jon_s Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I find the ceres a really rewarding model to fly.The wing section means that you do not need reflex at all to go fast and yet drop a hint of flap and she will thermal very well.The baudis models I have are :-Ceres F3B with RDS :DCeres Lift with RDS aileronsCyril F3B.All models are super strong and light, but can be loaded up to give performance. The only ting I find about the ceres is that the turn style has to be fairly open or the speed will scrub if over pulled.Make sure you have very good and fast vtail servos fitted (JR3500g's with plastic gears are excellent and position very well.)3150's for the wing are fine. The wing section is fast, and can be loaded to extract the best in bigger conditions.You'll love this one stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Hi Jon, Nice fleet!I am looking forward to seeing how it compares to my vikos, which turns well but isn't the fastest in a straight line. I will probably be selling my Tragi, and keep the Vikos. So will take on board the wider turn style and see how I get on. I have Tragi set for a fairly open turn, so hope to see some improvment with a open turn combined with slipperyness . Having the Vikos and the Ceres should give me options to explore styles .Servos wise I have got some MKS 6125 mini for the wings and 6125-H for elevator. The recommended graupners for ele are a tad spendy. I have some frames for the wing servos. Might see if a hybrid with the Baudis supplied 3150 frames is possible to utilise the external bearing.Got a tickle in my belly for this one. Can't wait! Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jon_s Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I didnt include my F3B ascot or my Suoer light weight F3B Extasy either in that stu.The JR3500g's are 2/3rds the price of the rec servos and just as fast.You will need fast servos to feel the turn and recover from a cut (Trust me I know how to cut !)All of my models are either fitted with 3500g's or the trusty 3781's rec by baudis and have never looked back.Make sure that the MKS centre well on the elevators, or you'll be wrestling the model along the line.And I wouldn't use them on the v's for racing if the speed to 60degrees is greater then 0.09seconds. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Cheers Jon, I will review my choice for elevator servos. Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Well…she's here! Looks very nice too! Wasn't sure if it came with bags…but it did and smart they are too! Hope to make a start sunday. Away tomorrow. Fingers crossed I'll get her done in a week or two…but working long days at the moment (just think of the over time). What glue should I use with wooden frames? Should I use stronger slow setting epoxy (i have some SP stuff that takes a day or so). Would normally use 30 min for glueing taped servos in without frames. Edit, assembly guide says 5min epoxy. I assumed stronger stuff would be better as servos can be removed easily with frames. Gues they should knock loose still in an empact to help save the wing? Cheers, Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 I tend to use Stabilit Express, but 30 minute epoxy should be fine. You might also want to consider 30 minutes with micro ballons - it bulks it up and is a lot lighter than epoxy on its own. I'm sure Mike Evans and other s will chip in with their favourites. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Not heard of Stabilit Express before. I will check it out. I have some phenolic micro balloons. Thanks Simon, Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 A number of places to get this stuff from. Stabilit can be got from Gliders Distribution. UHU Hart from Elite Models. http://www.cornwallmodelboats......48315.html (my current preferred epoxy) http://www.cornwallmodelboats......bilit.html Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Many thanks Simon. Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Assembling gliders when tired leads to mistakes and bad decisions. Been working long days for a while and had a long day yesterday at goodwood...but wanted to get started on the Ceres today. Thought I'd get the wing servo frames in at least. Well...I did...but not in the best place. I wanted to keep all the screws on the servo mount accessible which meant what I thought was slight missalignment of the linkage...turns out too much on the ailerons. So after leaving it for a few hours to rest and calm down a bit I went for another look. it was bugging me. I was going to just make linkages with a z bend...but the more I thought about it the more I thought I would regret it and have it niggling! So out comes mr dremel! Need to order some new frames now! I will mount them with the base servo lug under the lip and use 2 screws instead if all 3. Wish I used frames before. No more taped servo for me if I can help it. Question time: it came with carbon rod for the vtail control. The manual talks about an epp foam block to guide. I guess this needs to go in the middle if pos? Seems like it will be trial and error for shaping and for hole placement!?Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodstock Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I'm a fan of frames too. Just be VERY careful that your screws are short enough - any protuberance out the bottom can put a horrible pimple on your nice shiny moulded skin surface... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Yes...I forgot to say I have one slight pimple now . All scre tips new dremmelled sort as they don't need to be pointy to cut their way in drilled holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Stu, I made up balsa frames for my Ceres to support the CF rods - I measured the fuz diameter/height about 1/3 along the boom, which is where the support is needed. I then made a former up , worked out what height the rods should go through, and the drilled slightly oversize holes. I think I used a long bit of 1/4" spruce tacked onto the former to position the former. It was glued in place. If you are feeling brave you can glue it in place with the rods installed - it makes it easier but be careful with the glue. I didn't like the thought of potential drag from the EPP foam, giving double centring. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyKnee Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Hi Simon, Do you mean one in the front third and another in the rear third? How do you get the glue in there ? Cheers, Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 1/3 back from Trailing edge - That outs the spacer about half way between the servos and the elevators. I can't remember how I applied glue - might have been with a syringe into a bowden outer (connect with a bit of silicon fuel tube), or possibly super glued. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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