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Gonesoaring2003

Soldering Iron

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Gonesoaring2003

HiMy soldering iron doesn't seem to be man enough to solder clevises to pushrods, what sort of wattage is good for this job?Any recommendations?CheersAlex 

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Phil.Taylor

My old 25watt does the job oktip - use flux - first clean up the pushrod end with fine sandpaper - then dip it in the flux & push into the clevis - then add the heat & solder with the soldering iron, let it get got enough & the solder will flow nicely into the jointPhil.

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satinet

glue - e.g rubberised CA such as gorilla superglue.  If it's a clevis to the threaded end then almost anything.

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Woodstock

Chewing gum?

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Gromit

Denture- Fix

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satinet

seeing as it doesn't come of the threaded end without any glue then probably.

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RGPuk

Woodstock said:

Chewing gum?
That gave me a chuckle.  Another one eh?  wink.gifRo.

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simon_t

If you want a 'do-it-all' soldering iron that is fine enough to work on pcb boards and small components, as well as soldering connectors onto the very thick wire on big LiPo batteries, then a 50 W temperature controlled will do the job.  Antex, Weller, or Maplin's own do a good job.  My Antex has been going strong for at least 30 years, with only the occasional tip change (still on the original heating element) Simon

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Gonesoaring2003

I've been happily using my 15w Weller for years - it's great for servo wires and have even managed a few of the thicker wires with patience, but it just doesn't seem to get a pushrod hot enough to melt the solder. Will have a look at options, but failing that will resort to Tom's glue method! Think I'll keep my chewing gum for chewing!grin.gif ThanksAlex 

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satinet

you can glue the none threaded end as well. just wind the clevis on and it creates its own thread. If you put the glue on before you wind the clevis on you just hit it with kicker and away you go.  Gorilla CA is very nice.the threaded side on really needs a threadlocker - of course you can get threadlock for just that job.  I usually go for rubberised CA because you have plenty of working time but you can kick it whenever you want.

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Gonesoaring2003

Thanks Tom, Is the thick ZAP a GAP a rubberised CA?

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van

i use soldering iron Weller too w.o.  problems

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isoaritfirst

Over the last couple of years push rods have changed their makeup and now are very hard to solder even with a good iron and lots of flux. 

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Woodstock

Gromit said:

Denture- Fix smug.gif
You say that in jest, but I often wonder what that stuff is the Dentists use for fillings, that they set using some sort of gun (UV light?)?  Could be really useful in models.

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simon_t

Woodstock said:

Gromit said:

Denture- Fix

You say that in jest, but I often wonder what that stuff is the Dentists use for fillings, that they set using some sort of gun (UV light?)?  Could be really useful in models.

Have a look at: http://www.norlandpr.....sives.html Simon

Edited by simon_t

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Woodstock

Cool!  Thanks!

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Phil.Taylor

While we're about it, I've found that the Multiplex M2.5 clevises & rods are strong & easy to make up – one clevis soldered directly to the rod, it slips on "just right" (unlike the M2 versions, some of which you can screw on, and some you cant). Simplest possible control rod, and stronger/stiffer than M2M25_link.jpgPhil.

Edited by Phil.Taylor

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isoaritfirst

I use the stainless threaded both end stuff, screw a Mjet plastic clevis on one end (threads very tight) and a metal one ground out for the servo end with a bit of thread lock. http://www.acemodel......od_79.html Mjet end is adjustable if needed - but if you used the easy flap install - it shouldn't need adjusting... 

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Yoyo

isoaritfirst said:

I use the stainless threaded both end stuff, screw a Mjet plastic clevis on one end (threads very tight) and a metal one ground out for the servo end with a bit of thread lock. http://www.acemodel......od_79.html Mjet end is adjustable if needed - but if you used the easy flap install - it shouldn't need adjusting... smug.gif
The best pushrods I've had were from rcmetalbitz:   http://rcmetalbitz.c.....ducts.aspx Why doesn't anyone sell decent metal clevises already ground out? It's a lot of faff doing it without losing the temper of the spring steel.

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Weysoar

There are a number of instant 'gun' type soldering irons for sale, 100w to 150w, are they up to the job of soldering motor and battery leads? Has anyone used them?

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