Mr Ed Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 I don't have the space luxury for a high start so I reckon I'll fit a catapult launch tube in the nose. It has the benefit of being capable of being retrofitted so no need to commit yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thuro Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Hi , I recommend to glue all parts in with this epoxy glue only :http://www.der-schweighofer.at/artikel/56222/uhu_plus_endfest_300_15g together with cotton flocks !!! Cheers Thuro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiberjaber Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Not come across that glue before Thuro, is it just 5/30min epoxy? I have ordered some Kevlar aramid tape (50mm wide) some peelply and some cotton flock so I can repair the fus internaly and make a better job of fixing in the servo tray I might add some carbon tow in there too, will ponder on my way to the market at lunch time to buy a bike inner tube :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Looks like a 2 hour epoxy, not unheard of on these shores - http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2701 I need some new epoxy so will give this a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thuro Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Not come across that glue before Thuro, is it just 5/30min epoxy? Hi, no its a longer one, 24 h by 20°C and faster with more temperature but the best whaht you can get. I tried to remove a servo sheet but I can't do it without a totally damage. All what needs a tighten connection should be glued with this Epoxy. Thats exactly what you need http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2701 C. Thuro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiberjaber Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Thats similar to what I used, a 24hr laminating epoxy, I think it was the micro baloons which probably attributed to the shearing of the wall of the fus. Cotton flock ordered so should provide a less brittle bond... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodstock Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I suspect the UHU epoxy glue Thuro is referring isn't a laminating epoxy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isoaritfirst Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 more like an original (long setting) araldite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thuro Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I suspect the UHU epoxy glue Thuro is referring isn't a laminating epoxy.. Its more a metall, GFK, wood glue but it even dissolves a bit the laminate and therefore you get the best connection. I dont know a better one. Cheers Thuro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 HI Thuro My fuselage is finished but on the wing I am finding that using your linkages means I need to make a bigger hole in the wing skin for clearance than I would like. It seems more of a cut away than with the original Needle that seemed to have smaller lever. Do you have any photos of a DSL flap lever so I can compare? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiberjaber Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Well finished off the Needle this weekend. For the first time I used some peelply and it worked out really well. I also added some carbon tow around the opening. A session with a newly made bladder and it was ready to add the servo tray... plenty of laminating epoxy and cotton flock and left over night. After fitting it all back in I re-did the wing servo connector thinking it had failed only to discover it was teh DS095 that was dead, on inspection it was the fets which blown and also the motor... replacing the motor and control board from another faulty pot one fixed all that.... finaly got it balanced at 87 (86 with the bar ballast added) and took it to the field to stick it up the bungee to see how it went.... I have to say.. I fell in love again with it. I totaly forgot I was on a flat field and pulled a few too many loops too close to the ground... got away with them but wouldnt have planned to do them!.... looking forward to getting on a slope again soon! Thuro... I must say though, the old metal canopy retainer is better than the current carbon one :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thuro Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 HI Thuro My fuselage is finished but on the wing I am finding that using your linkages means I need to make a bigger hole in the wing skin for clearance than I would like. It seems more of a cut away than with the original Needle that seemed to have smaller lever. Do you have any photos of a DSL flap lever so I can compare? John Hi John Which GFK horns do you use? I suggest the shorter ones but then there is no change between the old and the current lever's. May be I dont know what you mean? @Jiberjaber Hi, You should use a transparent shrinking tube to secure the canopy. It save's against scratches too . The good old error with DS095. This servo is too weak on electronics I found out. Better the DS 6125 from MKS with SBEC even though we had some burned down pieces too. I'm not happy with both but I dont know if you can get a alternative servo. Btw.: we changed to Carbon because if the metall rod is bended then you couldn't rebend it. Cheers Thuro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Thuro - do you have a photo which shows the clear heatshrink in position? I saw that in your instructions, but I couldn't understand exactly how it is applied. Thanks, Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 I have to say.. I fell in love again with it. I totaly forgot I was on a flat field and pulled a few too many loops too close to the ground... got away with them but wouldnt have planned to do them!.... looking forward to getting on a slope again soon! Nice graphics mate, a lovely looking plane. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Hi Thuro I am using the short horns but I can't remember how much I cut away on my old wings. Maybe the horn sits further forward because the flap wing skin is thicker. I shall just carry on with it. Maybe maiden this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiberjaber Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Hi, You should use a transparent shrinking tube to secure the canopy. It save's against scratches too . The good old error with DS095. This servo is too weak on electronics I found out. Better the DS 6125 from MKS with SBEC even though we had some burned down pieces too. I'm not happy with both but I dont know if you can get a alternative servo. Btw.: we changed to Carbon because if the metall rod is bended then you couldn't rebend it. Cheers Thuro Hmmm yes, the DS095 hasnt been a good servo, when it works it is, when it doesnt... well! I have MKS6125s but I dont really want to hack off the lugs to fit them in... The metal rod is better then the carbon, both will need a fair bit of work to replace, but at least the metal one doesnt snap I'll get round to fixing the carbon one some time this weekend Simon, if you look closely this Ava has a heatshrink application to make sure the canopy doesnt come of and be lost... it didnt stop the glider from being lost unfortunatly And also on this Xplorer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 HI Thuro My fuselage is finished but on the wing I am finding that using your linkages means I need to make a bigger hole in the wing skin for clearance than I would like. It seems more of a cut away than with the original Needle that seemed to have smaller lever. Do you have any photos of a DSL flap lever so I can compare? John HI Thuro, I found out what the problem was. The skins on the aileron and flap are so thick with carbon ( a good thing!) that the CNC tapered surface horns are pushed too far forward and also a bit under 1mm too high. Some sanding and all is OK. All looking good now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul garnett Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Excellent days f3f practice with the Needle 100, really starting to show its colours now with a suprisingly soft set up (well for me anyway!!)... I have been working on a slightly different technique which seems to be paying dividends now, giving far more consistant times in variable types of air, now it maybe an optical illusion, but it seems to really accelerate out of the turns, it certainly doesnt seem to be loosing any speed... some pilots have said its because of its SMALL size that makes it look fast, its not, it IS fast.. laters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster-X Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Presenting the model to the bases above the ridge line also helped, you sure were nailing the bases well yesterday ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_r Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 No doubt about the pace Paul - the size does make it look even faster, but it is quick, and clearly a good F3F model! Felt really good on the sticks too - thx :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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