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Keith B

Wing Servo's

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Keith B

I think I need to meet up with some of you guys in a workshop, I just can't see a way to fit HS 125's in a Sunbird wing using ply mounts or bracing the exposed side of the servo, I've built tons of IC/leccy aircraft, but I seem to be struggling getting my head around mouldies

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Yoyo

I think I need to meet up with some of you guys in a workshop, I just can't see a way to fit HS 125's in a Sunbird wing using ply mounts or bracing the exposed side of the servo, I've built tons of IC/leccy aircraft, but I seem to be struggling getting my head around mouldies

 

It's a Sunbird I'm doing next and I've got mks 6100s to go in it which are pretty small but still a tight fit.

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Woodstock

OK, TBH I've never done an install in a 60" mouldy  :unsure: ...  But in such a tiny plane I guess braces prolly aren't needed:  a bit of bubblegum, press it in, and your'e done  ;) !

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isoaritfirst

My ProdiJ will be very similar to your Sunbird build I used MKS6100 10mm servos in a 10mm wing.

 

Cut the lugs off and glue them in the hole. wrap or shrink or just glue.. your choice.

 

Push rod can be just a simple L bend into the servo arm. kept in place by a  former  fitted into the wing running parallel with the push rod, it will both strengthen the servo fix by fixing the top and bottom skin together and also work as a fence to stop the L bend slipping out of the servo arm.

 Their is a pic somewhere on RCGroups  if you need one, search under ProdiJ HM - isoar - 

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Yoyo

I do like to use an L-bend but I thread the bent bit and self tap it into the arm, this holds it in and works really well. You do need to remove the arm to get it off if you need to, but on this one I'm also using the tony fu bearings so that shouldn't be too difficult to do.

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isoaritfirst

I have used thread ends occasionally but always find bending smaller threaded rod is tricky. It's ok if you use bike spokes but threaded rod from the model shop often breaks when bent sharply on the thread ends.

You also need to ensure that the threads are cut very square into the servo arm and the pushrod is bent very actually to 90 degrees. Especially if using metal servo arms. Any slight error gets magnified down the pushrod length and can put side loads onto all the bearing surfaces which leads to either failure or increases wear and slop quicker than ideal.

Thinner rods help to accomadate the twist but don't cope with the thread bend. Thicker rods don't flex so much so need the very accurate set bends. I gave up with threaded ends a few years ago, the principle is great but i found it to tricky to do well so now typically I would choose a clevis on each end, but on smaller models where an L Bend seems more appropriate I do find that a simple tight bend into a plastic servo arm is easier to make and works better for longer.

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oipigface

Tony Fu (and/or MetalBitz) sell very neat RDH adapters that I have used a lot recently. Drill and tap the servo arm to 2mm, and screw the adapter on. Add a drop of thin cyano. A 2mm rod screws into the adapter. Works very well. There's a picture on my Schwing build thread.

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Keith B

Tony Fu (and/or MetalBitz) sell very neat RDH adapters that I have used a lot recently. Drill and tap the servo arm to 2mm, and screw the adapter on. Add a drop of thin cyano. A 2mm rod screws into the adapter. Works very well. There's a picture on my Schwing build thread.

What build thread is that?

 

K

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Yoyo

I have used thread ends occasionally but always find bending smaller threaded rod is tricky. It's ok if you use bike spokes but threaded rod from the model shop often breaks when bent sharply on the thread ends.

 

I have 2mm and 2.5mm dies so I use bare pushrods and bend them before threading. At that size it's easy to run a die just with your fingers.

 

What I could do with is someone making pushrods with a threaded L bend but also a kink right next to it to do what the missing bit in a ground away clevis does. Done in 2.5mm stainless they would be rigid enough for 3m+ mouldies.

 

Any takers? Maybe I should just make a jig and start churning them out?

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isoaritfirst

DSL needle uses L bends on both ends. They are factory produced and work well, as the bends are tight and accurate They run accurately in the eyes and provided the servos are mounted square they exhibit no tendency to dislocate. The wing appetures would stop them before they became separated but I don't even see them rubbing against the sides.

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RGPuk

I have 2mm and 2.5mm dies so I use bare pushrods and bend them before threading. At that size it's easy to run a die just with your fingers.

 

What I could do with is someone making pushrods with a threaded L bend but also a kink right next to it to do what the missing bit in a ground away clevis does. Done in 2.5mm stainless they would be rigid enough for 3m+ mouldies.

 

Any takers? Maybe I should just make a jig and start churning them out?

 

I'd go for 3 sets of four to start please. ......  :)

 

Something else I've hunted for are servo arm size screws and bolts with hex heads.  Always fitting Fu Bearings or having to disturb perfectly healthy servos to facilitate simple arm changes always seems so avoidable somehow.

 

And yes, I do have a bent screwdriver - but sometimes things are just so tight (Flying Fish size stuff etc) even that can't get in adequately.

 

Ro.

 

PS.  Basic stuff maybe - but this has been a good thread. I really could have used it three years ago. ...  :rolleyes:

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oipigface

What build thread is that?

 

K

It's called Building a Schwing on the Slope and DS forum.

Anyone know if there is a way of referencing on these forums?

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RGPuk

It's called Building a Schwing on the Slope and DS forum.

Anyone know if there is a way of referencing on these forums?

 

 

Ro. .....  :thumbsup:

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Big Bear

Hi Folks,

 

Talking of servos I recently bought an E fuz for my Xpro and decided on splashing out on some MKS 6125e for the rudder and elevator. However when the two came together the servo is just slightly too small so cannot screw it down.

 

 

What suggestions can you make for me to be able to fit these neatly into the Fuz?

 

Cheers

 

Adam

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satinet

just put a bit of wood in so it can screw in to it.  You might want to cut out the gap between the two servo holes and remake it to fit your servos.  Hardly a job.

 

Bit of surprising choice of servo unless it's a vtail.

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