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Scandera from EPP-Shape.de


Tilman Baumann

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Tilman Baumann

Well at least he has improved in them.

Will have to compare when it's finished.

The pictures certainly look similar at first glance.

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Tilman Baumann

I got fed up with my crappy b&q sanding paper. Putting a building stop until I get my new shiny permagrit block.

 

Few things to mention.

The spar is almost on top of the CoG. That means the ballast tube will be 2-3mm in front of the CoG. I hope that will be not too critical.

 

And, I designed some kind of bayonet style holder for the tail fin. Not sure it will let go of the fin in a crash. But at least it will come off easily for transport.

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Buy a roll of cloth sanding paper from wicks and stick it with carpet glue onto long blocks. I use some aluminum angle. Better than permagrit.

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Tilman Baumann

Haha, thank god I will have no way of comparing it with the original.

But I have messed up models before by making them too complex and too heavy. :rolleyes:

 

But I think I'm still on the save side. I'm very careful with anything I do not to add much weight. I added a few grams at the tail, but it is not very long I think I will get away with that.

I will make the actual tail fin light to compensate. I have a few ideas about that.

 

The covering is a big unknown still. When I hold that stuff in my hands I might have to reconsider and go with more traditional solartex or so. I haven't got that stuff delivered yet. No idea how heavy that will be.

But someone has to try all those new building methods.

 

The rest is basically just taking great care at building and taking hints from few other planes. Über-Moth and M60 mainly.

Another inspiration I will take from the Moth is to bring the receiver into the wing instead of the nose. Leaves me with more squish space in the nose and makes antenna placement easier.

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Tilman Baumann

Build log.

 

Finished sanding.

Carved a radio bay at the bottom of the wing.

Made a ballast tube and glued it in.

Carved a radius at the wing tips.

Fibre-glassed all wooden parts with one layer of cloth.

 

Today.

Wait for the epoxy to finish setting. It takes a bit longer than the regular 24h in the cold.

Tack a strip of kevlar at the leading edge.

So some light spackling and sanding.

Better get going...

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Tilman Baumann

Radio bay and ballast tube.

Posted Image

Note the kevlar at the leading edge.

Posted Image

Light Spackle, one last sanding and goop and the wing will be done...

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Tilman Baumann

Oh, forgot to post that. EPP-Shape.de it's all German but pretty obvious to navigate.

You can pay with PayPal, just drop the guy a mail _after_ you ordered. (He expects bank transfer by default)

I got a digital version of the instructions as a word document from the guy.

Should be easy to machine translate that. If you have questions ask me.

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Tilman Baumann

I made a little mistake.

I should have put the kevlar strip on after I spackled and sanded the wing.

Because you can't sand the edge of the kevlar strip without frazzling it.

 

But no big deal. I had just lightly tacked it on with spray glue. Just have to cut a new one.

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Tilman Baumann

I just gooped the wing. Worked well, just that my work got cut short by massive rain and thunder storm. (Solvents, so I work outside)

I did not do the fuselage because I noticed another cockup. I already wrapped it in glass cloth but forgot to put in the carbon strips.

Must think about that. I don't have much cloth left and no spray glue to do it again.

I think I can get away without them. Goop on glass is strong.

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Just put them on the outside and add a few more layers of x-weave.

 

I usually add loads of tape around teh nose especially of my foamies - adds loads of strength and weight in stead of adding lead.

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Tilman Baumann

Posted Image

Wing covered with car vinyl.

Colours are wrong it's actually a angry orange.

You see the retro reflective effect in the flash.

Bottom is solid matte black.

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Tilman Baumann

The vinyl becomes very pliable under heat.

No woman in the house so no hair dryer. Not sure if my smd rework station is the right tool. (A man's tool :) )

Steam from the kettle worked OK-ish.

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No woman in the house so no hair dryer. Not sure if my smd rework station is the right tool. (A man's tool :) ).

A man's tool will not usually work effectively on heat shrink. Why not put in a bid for this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOP-GUN-HEAT-GUN-FOR-SOLARFILM-ETC-GOOD-WORKING-ORDER/231078522962?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2202506501785117886%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D160973752228%26 ?

What's an 'smd rework station'?

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No woman in the house so no hair dryer. Not sure if my smd rework station is the right tool. (A man's tool :) ).

A man's tool will not usually work effectively on heat shrink. Why not put in a bid for this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOP-GUN-HEAT-GUN-FOR-SOLARFILM-ETC-GOOD-WORKING-ORDER/231078522962?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D2202506501785117886%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D160973752228%26 ?

What's an 'smd rework station'?

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Tilman Baumann

A and rework station is a finely controllable hot air gun with a very small nozzle and not much wind for resoldering tiny smd parts.

I would probably just burn a hole in the wing with that. :)

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Tilman Baumann

Grumpf I ran out of toulene solvent and used standard b+q paint thinner. It had the worryingly unspecific description "contains hydro carbons".

Guess what, it's rubbish. It leaves a sticky oily residue.

Not the best surface to stick stuff on. And I wonder what it did to the adhesion of the glue in general.

What a stupid problem to have.

I just took it indoors hoping that it will evaporate the goo in the warmth. I hate the smell already.

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