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Merlin magic!


Ian F3F
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Hi Martin

The Vid looks excellent- good to see your installation and attention to detail with the smooth tape at the start.

It may be the first flight and you developed the set up but it looks like the Merlin just got on and did it's thing from the off.  I can't wait to see/hear more.

But there goes another excuse for my not flying EM turns

Ian

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Martin, thanks for posting the Vid's, looking forward to hearing more of your Merlin thoughts .

JP & Ian impressed all of us who attended with the Merlins performance at the F3f  Winter League Round 2 at Whitesheet on 8th Dec.

 

  Stu.

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  • 1 month later...

Been really frustrating not been able to get much stick time to work as closely on the Merlin setup as I would normally like with a glider, but after the first couple of outings not on the greatest of slope this is what I have found so far.

The Merlin has got very benign characteristics and so far hasn't shown any bad habits. One of the first things I always do with a model is to try and find its limits and to get the Merlin out of shape isn't easy. The wing tips are quite a thick cord which is probably one of the main factors in its very stable flight characteristics.  

It was very settled flying reversals but equally comfortable and very easy to fly EM and maintained or increased speed during each leg when conditions were consistent.

The Merlin as standard with the current supplied fuzz ballast tube can take 1.2kg ballast.  There is certainly room to fit a larger diameter tube to gain more weight, but the other option I am currently looking into is adding ballast boxes to the wings.

I flew the model in 10 - 12ms and it took full ballast comfortably. With the wing area it has room for plenty more for the bigger conditions.

Overall so far I would say the model is an excellent beginner to intermediate fliers model that could be used confidently for racing or sport flying. Although the wing tips have a thicker cord than I would personally like, I have already stated this provides a great stable model. It still maintains a good straight line speed combined with great turning ability retaining its energy, which are two main factors for racing. 

The setup I have 3 modes configured as follows:

CoG 100mm

All measurements are taken between the Aileron and flap.

Normal Mode: 2mm camber

Measurements in degrees

Aileron Up: 17.5

Aileron Down:  10

Elevator Up: 6

Elevator down: 6

Rudder all modes 7.5

Pump Mode: 1mm Camber

Aileron Up: 17.5

Aileron Down: 12.5

Flap Up: 10

Flap down: 7.5

Elevator Up: 6

Elevator down: 6

Speed Mode: Aileron level with wing tip and align flaps (flap should be level with fuzz fairing)

Aileron Up: 15

Aileron Down: 12.5

Flap Up: 5

Flap Down: 5

Elevator Up: 5

Elevator Down 6

Snap: 5 set on a curve at 75% 2.5

I also have Camber set on a switch for Normal and Pump which is only used for launch 3 degrees and 5 degrees.  5 degrees is rarely used if ever. when going into speed mode these setting along with butterfly/crow are disabled.

Butterfly / Crow:

Aileron up: 12.5

flaps down: 55

elevator down: 11

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sad day on Sunday 16th February.

Had a rethink on my set up on the Merlin after the Whitesheet comp and made some changes.

So on the way to Wales I stoped at Whitesheet on Saturday to see if my thoughts and setting where good, I was happy so place the plane back in the car for Sunday.

DSCF0754.jpg

Welsh rock is hard, but I have to say now I've looked in side the build is pretty good. Fuz is repairable, tail ok so may use these for a eletric version if I'm aload to have a new one at some time.

JP

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Settings where fine, Numptee on the sticks.

Must fly higher that what i've been working on, but in heat of competition old habbits come back.

Shame as I was just getting to feel better with the Merlin.

JP

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On 25/02/2014 at 22:37, simon_t said:

And this is the red marks the Merlin left on the Bwlch rocks:

These pictures do beg the question - how the hell did you get all the bits back!? even the servo frames. :o

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YIKES :o , sorry to hear about your Merlin John. It always makes me 'cringe' and take a sharp intake of breath when I see pics of badly damaged or trashed models :o .

It might be a 'Merlin',... but it'll take a 'Wizard' to fix that mess  :D  ,.....sorry John, couldn't resist :blush:

 

  Stu.

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  • 1 month later...

Here's the new E fuselage we've produced.  As the Merlin carries the weight so well it was a perfect choice for an F3b e version.  The new ressin and heavy use of carbon from the LE back has made this a really stiff model.

 

test pilot anyone?

 

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  • 1 year later...

Hi guys, I have just started the build of a Merlin. I am some what unsure how to fix the aileron/flap horns. The ones supplied with the kit are GRP. Any information or pictures would be gratefully received. Why cant I access any pictures on this thread?

Thanks in advance.

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Hi Jaz you will find some build pictures and set up on http://f3fuk-soaring.blogspot.co.uk

Regards the flaps and aileron horns there should already be holes where the brass horns should go? To strengthen this area I laid some glass cloth over the resin and micro balloon mix. 

I'm sure Ian will have some additional pics to share.

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That's great Martin, thanks..that gives me some idea for the v tail and ballast tube. The horns supplied are GRP. I wonder if people are scrapping these in favour of the brass ones. BTW, there are no holes for the horn to fit. There is holes for the control rods to come from the servo.  For some reason I can't access any pictures on this thread. 

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I found some pics of a Willow 2 build from RC groups. You need to make a slot in the control surface spar for the tail of the grp horn to fit into. The horn should be level with the wiper. You'll need to cut a gap into the wiper to access the clevis. The horns can be a tight fit on the clevis so you may have to fettle them. The upper skin on the wing may rub the horn/clevice so don't be afraid to relieve it a little. 

Make sure you use quality servos.  With the horn being so short it lacks leverage so your linkages have to be nice and strong and bracing the servos to the upper skin won't hurt either. 

If I did it again I would consider brass /aluminium horns protruding from the upper skin the old fashioned way just to get better geometry working for the servo.

P.s. the Merlin build is the same as Willow 2 pics I borrowed. 

a7195159-114-willow 2 august 006.jpg

a7195160-251-willow 2 august 011.jpg

a7195161-177-willow 2 august 016.jpg

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isoaritfirst

Although I've not built a Merlin, having hidden linkages isn't worth the hassle. They give a much poorer control authority than making them just slightly taller and relieving the top skin very slightly.

I would go with horns tall enough to have around 8 - 10mm length from hinge line to hole. You will get a much better flying model.

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