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Electric Typhoon - motor setup


Rob Thomson

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Right.

I have acquired an e-typhoon kit, so am looking at getting a suitable power rig setup on it.

I am looking at 'warmliner' performance. Power being used mostly for quick height gain. With this in mind I am looking at using a 3 cell setup.

Motor I am looking at is:

LC2835-4T

http://www.t9hobbysport.com/leopard-2835-series

So... Question is.

What size prop?

What size ESC? (Thinking 80amp)

Will it work?

Rob

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It won't go vertically up looking at the spec.

Less than 100watts per pound weight.

Correct choice for 3s out of the 3 motors.

A correctly speced 40A esc should suffice, go to 60 or 80 for future proofing, or for producing smoke from the motor before the esc. if you over prop/cook it.

Larger prop gives much more thrust so a 10 inch diameter is what it suggests, maybe it comes with a spec sheet, you need to not exceed 28 amps apparently.

I expect T9 can recommend suitability.

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Tilman Baumann

Suppose I buy one. Suppose I want big prop high torque vertical climb out.

Hypothetically, what should I get?

No sustained hotliner performance but burst only.

I'm currently mulling over the idea of getting one.

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Tilman Baumann

Difficult to find for the money.

I have to say. The price is the only reason I'm considering one.

Valenta Cappuccino or Alex XL are both way more expensive, especially if I buy the Typhoon from hobbyking. Which come to mind as comparable cheap and cheerful models.

I like a easy to fly, good for all conditions, allrounder. It's probably not going to thermal well enough for zero wind days.

But at least with the engine I get a few minutes joy out of it anyway. :)

Something that flies easy, perhaps even a bit unremarkable and lands safe no matter what.

Anyway. Don't need to hotrod it. But vertical climb has something about it.

Nice to have.

I probably don't want to invest in a expensive gearbox. And with outrunners size quickly becomes a problem.

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Info given to me ages ago about the typhoon by "Zim":

Motor recommended was Motor Hyperion GS2218-10 

 

Info for the Typhoon Electrics:

 

Set-up on the e-Typhoon depends on what you want to do with the model. If you intend to fly it substantially with the power on i.e. almost as an electric model, then I suggest propping the motor for moderate wattage in order to allow it to run without overheating. A 10*6 prop pulling 33A and 370W will give you this ability. However, personally I don’t really see the point in it. I prefer to prop the motor to max current i.e. a 13*6.5 drawing 52A and 565W and limit motor usage to 5 second bursts to climb to height. The model will accelerate vertically with this set-up, but you cannot use the motor for more than 5 seconds per time, otherwise you WILL overheat it and pop it. However, this set-up will have the model to great height in 5 seconds, after which you can choose to go thermal hunting for hours on end, or execute some rapid aerobatics off a huge dive from height. Once you have bled this energy off, the motor will be ready for another assault! If you want to do this same thing but with a little more margin for durability, then a 12*6.5 prop will drop your consumption to 45A and 500W. Still VERY nippy.

 

IIRC the nose is quite tapered and the Hyperion outrunner is specially tapered for gliders.

I wouldn't even consider the typhoon for thermal soaring as it will be "w@nk", to use a technical term.

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Tilman Baumann

OK... I have chosen the DT38.

May as well turn this into a pocket rocket!

Careful. It seems like HobbyKing got a bit carried away there with the size.

There is a customer comment on the Cyclone-E about that motor.

 

I recieved this model and motor yesterday,

Quality of this model is 5 crowns but how can I fit this big 39mm Diameter motor in the 33mm nose ?

Need to cut nose 40 mm to almost front edge of the canopy.

Have HK flown this plane with this motor before recomend the motor and other staff ?

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From what I have seen, the firewall is not fixed.

So move it back, and use a prop shaft adapter - sorted!

Well.. Hopefully it will work :)

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From what I have seen, the firewall is not fixed.

So move it back, and use a prop shaft adapter - sorted!

Well.. Hopefully it will work :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right.  Rather than leave this thread as a lost answer - I figured time to put in my flying config.

 

- Motor:  

   Leopard 2835 Series (LC2835-8T.)

- Esc

   Turnigy 60AMP ESC

- Prop

   Currently on a Graupner  12x8.

 

Checking on a what meter - current draw is around 35amps,  So bags of room to play.

 

I have flight tested on 3 cell.  Performance is mediocre.   4 cell is clearly the better option;  but my batteries have not been delivered yet.

 

Next thing I do will probably be to up the prop size a little.  But will wait and see what the flight performance is like!

 

Rob

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You are already exceeding the spec on current draw, and max power.

For 3s the 4T motor looks better with the higher kv.

When you try the 4s battery you may find the magic smoke escapes, lets hope the spec is under-rated.

What is the flying weight of the model ?

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If you keep the diameter on the prop and reduce the pitch then you are keeping the efficiency of moving a large mass of air for the vertical pulling power.

Try to get good air flow over the motor, you may be able to push the spec. Keep checking the temperature on landing.

If you want good performance then you need at least 100watts per pound in weight.

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I have ordered a range to play with:

 

10x4   

10x8

11x8

12x6

13x8

14x8

 

It will be one of the first four that brings the amps down.

 

Hate electric prop sizing!    So many things to get right!

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Ok... Done some playing this evening.

 

I found a 9x6 prop in the shed.

 

3 Cell ->  15 amps draw.  Seems to give about the same 'pull' as the bigger prop.  Result.

 

4 Cell ->  20 amps draw.  Stupidly powerfull.  Posibly just right.

 

I will try with a 10x4 when the props arrive next week; but for now I think it is pretty close to perfect.

 

Rob

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