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Pulsar 3.2 electric.


MartynJohnston

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MartynJohnston

Just bought myself a 'beautiful' Pulsar 3.2 electric thermal soaring glider. Second hand and hardly flown.

Had some motor issues initially but soon fixed. I've only test-flown it but the quality looks absolutely marvellous.

Each panel looks perfect on its own but there is a slight twist somewhere because the left wing-tip is slightly above the central flap, which is slightly above the right wing-tip. Needs looking at one day.

One concern I have is that there is no switch; you make all the battery connections before screwing the nose cone on. So you cannot turn it 'off' between flights. Has anyone got any suggestions about a switch? They only ever seem to switch the ESC connection, not the power line but I'm not sure what's best. Anybody used anything like this 'Zepsus' switch (link here) ? Or is a proper 'physical' switch just as good ?

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Martyn

When i owned a Pulsar, I had the negative side of the esc wire come out of the side of the fus in the pod under the wing with a bullet connector inline. The wire passed back into the fus to the battery and I plugged and unplugged as necessary. As a neater solution I have also seen people mount a deans socket into the side of the fus in line on the negative side with a bridge deans plug is then plugged in or not to make the connection.

Hope that makes sense, easier done than said.

Graham

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MartynJohnston

Thanks for the prompt reply GRJ.

I've seen people use the Deans type connector, but is that any better than having a proper little slidy switch ?

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Slidey switches can as you say tend to be on the receiver and can fail. The solutions I suggest kills the power. In my experience modern day esc's, combined with throttle cut on transmitter seems pretty safe and reliable.

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The whole nose cone idea is dumb for electric - great for gliders.

I have done 3 Graphites and more than 10 Organics.

Cut a hatch out, put a frame inside and use the cutout as a hatch with a carbon rod as spring / catch.

Remove the "innards" and just leave 3/4 inch to glue the nose to.

OrgNose.jpg

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Martyn,

You could always use an Emcotec SPS saftey power switch (magnetic type switch).  The motor is isolated until you remove the magnet.

They come in various voltage and current ratings. Not cheap but they work well.

Martin.

 

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  • 1 month later...
Hairy Haggis

Martyn

My solution to the lack of a hatch in the Pulsar nose cone was to use an original Supra canopy which fits perfectly to the curves of the Pulsar and carefully make an opening to fit the inside of the canopy. The outer lip of the canopy keeps it from falling inside if you got the hole the correct size.

I do have pictures, somewhere.!!!!!!!!!!!! 

A couple of tows of carbon were epoxied to the underside of the opening and a wire or carbon hatch catch glued to canopy to retain it.  

Hyperflight do have Supra canopies in stock as I write. 

Andy 

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MartynJohnston

Now that does look a good idea. Means you can turn the battery off when you land.

Still don't understand the bit where you said "The outer lip of the canopy keeps it from falling inside if you got the hole the correct size. "

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Hairy Haggis

The canopy has a 2mm protruding lip which runs round all of the edge of the canopy. 

Look at the picture of the inside of the canopy and you will see a vertical wall that also runs round the canopy, this goes inside the fuz. and the lip is on the outside of that.  

 

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