MikeDLG Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 I have just about finished my red NXT, but have bench flown my orange one and Gavin's yellow one :-) Hoping for acceptable flying weather on Sunday! Looks like it will come out at about 235-240g I may do a build thread when I build the orange one. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirrusRC Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 very nice trio look forward to a build thread Mike. Love the red and white scheme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Looking good Mike, this weekend is my first chance to make any progress with mine, or see it in day light for that matter, It does look like state of the art beautifully executed, a big thanks to Richard and everyone at stream team for putting one in my hands. I'm planning a pretty regular spring pull build, but will try to post any points of note or brainwaves I might have. Are you doing three identical builds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDLG Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 It sure is beautifully made. I was particularly impressed with the trailing edge of the wing. It is the best I have seen. Very thin, stiff and smooth. The Flitz is nearly as good, but many I have seen are a bit rough. The Stream NXT is a very professionally manufactured DLG. But it is not really aimed at the beginner. You have to know what you are doing and have some of your own materials. This is fine for the majority of DLG flyers though. I am using the red build to try a few slightly different ideas and will build the orange the same if it works out well. Mainly the top drive set up is slightly different. The yellow one is Gavin's. I suspect he'll build it much the same as mine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikef Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 The aileron push rods look neat. How are they made? The back end looks like a shaped brass tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyHickson Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 I was just peering at the picture thinking the same thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDLG Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) Correct. It is 3/32" square brass tube machined out for the aileron horn. Round 3/32" tube does not leave enough meat to support the pin through the horn. And drilling the hole for pin accurately in round brass tube is difficult with tools I have. K&S 3/32" brass tube fits 1.5mm wire very well. On the servo side it transitions to 1.5mm steel wire. I tried soldering the wire to the brass in situ and I succeeded in melting the servo horn! CA works just fine. I also flipped the the serovs sound so that the horn was at the thickest part of the wing, towards the root. My main motivation was to not have to determine the length of the aileron pushrod before gluing in the servo and I was just going to use round brass tube to link steel wire at each end. The more I mulled it over the more complicated I decided to make it :-) Edited December 5, 2015 by MikeDLG 3/32" Brass tube details 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 After a good stint at the bench I have got quite a bit done, In the process of slotting the ailerons for the horns, I noticed there is a 20mm wide doubler on the under side of the flap lining up with the outboard end of the servo well. Worth having a look if it's not to late. Happy building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDLG Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Way to late for that Simon! Just the launch blade to go and I am done. Here are are my aileron pushrods before fitting: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marin Mitev Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 If it is off-topic please remove these pictures but this is my way to do aileron linkages. I just use a plastic ( I don't know what material is it ) tube. It's a live hinge and I have had no problems with it for few years on my Sofia model and that's why I used that way for the Akcent as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 MIke, A further question re your innovative aileron pushrods.....the horn connection at the aileron surface end looks to be soldered? Did you use a brass rod as a clevis with the ends soldered to the square tube? Regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 I've used these in the past on a couple of dlg's, and they have proved very reliable, many many hours without any problems, but it gets tricky at the servo end to get clearance for the boss on the horn at full up aileron. I've gone for my first "normal" push-rod set-up on this one though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satinet Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 You can get an mpjet clevis that is smaller than the normal one. That might be one. Hard to tell the scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirrusRC Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 what is the smallest mpjet clevis you can buy? What is the product code for it and where can I get them from? I assume the reason for Mikes mod is to improve the connection between the control rod and horn - to completely remove slop and more secure connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martynk Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 What secures the pins in the clevis? They look superb.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satinet Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 The pin fits pops in to the other side of the clevis. I use them on my f3x stuff. The larger one that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satinet Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 what is the smallest mpjet clevis you can buy? What is the product code for it and where can I get them from? I assume the reason for Mikes mod is to improve the connection between the control rod and horn - to completely remove slop and more secure connection? I don't know what the code is but they are called mpjet small clevis. The pin is 1mm diameter. You can also get metal versions of mpjet clevises now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 I agree with Simon, The small MPJet clevis is ideal for dlg and you get a positive click as the clevis pin engages with the plastic arm. II have used them to good effect on a Chili and a Bonus. They are very difficult to find but if you search on GForce clevis On E*** , I believe these are re-badged MPJet. Regards Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 The ones I have used are the small ones but they limit the min' horn length just too much for thin DLG wings, they have stood up to a lot, even on very short horns, cut down around the servo hub, but still cost a mm+ over "regular" pushrods. Back to the topic. I could only get 1.3 or 0.8 piano wire from my local model shop so went with the thicker gauge and Although the travels and geometry have come out pretty good, It looks like 1mm rod might have saved the horns touching the covers, hmmm, I can see why mike turned his round, I must have measured the wrong end of the bay as I thought I had plenty of room, didn't consider the span wise taper. On the plus side the top skin and the bottom skin of the flap appear to be doubled up where mine are. Now I've got most of the wings and tail together I can start prevaricating over the pod fit out, see if I can build it balanced, with out too much(any?) lead. I'll post a pic or two at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDLG Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Been a busy week, not had time to post anything. Interesting solution Marin, I will be sure to take a look at it when I see you next. My motives for that linkage were many fold. I wanted to do something easier, as in I wanted to be able to determine the pushrod length after gluing the servo in, instead of pre-bending a piece of wire and shoehorning it in. I also wanted something neater and enjoy fabricating my own components. It was much more of a necessity in Zimbabwe as we just could not buy what ever we wanted. Having a slop free mechanism is a given. I will take a look at those little clevises. I haven't seen any that I consider small enough but robust enough. My my red and white NXT is now ready to fly, just waiting for time and weather to coincide. Came out 238g with out balance weight, but I don't think it will need much, seems about right. I made the springs in the elevator and rudder quite strong and the buzzing of the servos was bugging me. The eagle eyed amongst you will notice the coils of thin wire around the servo out puts. I made torsion springs to unload the the servo horn. Seems to work quite well. I just wrapped 0.5mm steel wire around a large screwdriver shaft to make the torsion spring. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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