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NCFM Moth build

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evad

know what you mean about the weather Ive not been out much just a couple of short trips , but the moth is still going well and has had the bounceability well tested now :ermm:

 

dave  

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MooSe

Ok since I finished this M60 a few months ago I thought I'd better update the build to completion. 

Last time we'd got the wing done so it's fuz time.  Standard follow the instructions fare regarding shaping that lump of EPP into something sexy.  Just take your time and sand and check,  rinse and repeat. 

Now when it comes to radio fit I made a few tweaks based on experience to improve longevity.  As you can see I have a square AA batt pack. It's a squeeze but fits. This is packed in with foam scraps and plenty of goopage.  Don't be shy! Treat it like a gel shock absorbing agent.  I used a Blackjack switch/charge port but to be honest they're a bit of a pain. The port is mounted in ply with foam to fair it in. 

The carbon spar has been splooged with lead shot internally to provide nose weight and prevent the tube splitting,  which they do if you land with authority....

Just in front of the spar is a ply keel which is shaped to fit the nose.  Liberal amounts of goop again to postpone the dreaded beanbag nose effect. Also note that the radio compartment sides have ply reinforcement. You simply cut to shape and fit,  cut and sand the excess epp doors and you have a nice sturdy rc bay. 

Plenty of final sanding and you should have a fuz that is sleek and ready to accept the wing.

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MooSe

The pics pretty much speak for themselves here.  Just do your prep to ensure the wing is square. It's a bit of an embuggerance to get the servo wires in. To aid it I cut a slit to the rc bay and simply push the wires in to the hole you should have poked from wing to rc bay. When you're happy slather in the goop, check it's straight and weight it down. Easysleazy. 

You might notice in pic 2 the 3 drawn lines on top? These are for carbon rod longeron reinforcement.  M60's have a habit of breaking their back. This hopefully stops that although really the trick is to treat them like a crunchy.....

Next up is taping up and filming.

20160331_163055.jpg

20160331_163112.jpg

20160331_165430.jpg

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MooSe

The pics pretty much speak for themselves here.  Just do your prep to ensure the wing is square. It's a bit of an embuggerance to get the servo wires in. To aid it I cut a slit to the rc bay and simply push the wires in to the hole you should have poked from wing to rc bay. When you're happy slather in the goop, check it's straight and weight it down. Easysleazy. 

You might notice in pic 2 the 3 drawn lines on top? These are for carbon rod longeron reinforcement.  M60's have a habit of breaking their back. This hopefully stops that although really the trick is to treat them like a crunchy.....

Next up is taping up and filming.

20160331_163055.jpg

20160331_163112.jpg

20160331_165430.jpg

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MooSe

Oops! Bit of a double post going on there.

Tape time :frantics:

I use standard 1" x weave tape and adhere to the tried and time tested standard laid out by our American friends. That is, a layered system of tape and thinned goop. This forms an incredibly tough and resilient outer layer which flexes with the epp.

Thinned goop has been done to death but I have 5lts of Toulene, simply mix in a big jar with goop until you get that delicious honey effect. I paint a layer onto the bare epp to give a good adhesive Base for your tape.  Let it dry and apply the 1st tape layer.  The tape wants to lie in a certain way but pay attention to wing area and obviously plenty on the nose. Every time I apply a length I rough it up with scotch brite and give it a gentle iron if it needs persuading around a compound curve.  After the 1st layer I apply my goop and let it dry.  Now add a 2nd layer reinforcing and covering areas the 1st may have missed.  Just be aware you only need one layer past the wing trailing edge and you want to have an X over the wing as I mentioned before,  M60's break the foam back over the wing. More gentle ironing and then I build a few layers of thinned goop to get it nice and smooth.  When dry it has a rubbery feel. 

Give it a day and she's ready for film. There's only one option here really. Solartex.  It wraps and shrinks around compound curves beautifully.  Take your time and do it in sections from tail to nose. Do note to mark and cut the slot for the fin before covering.  I find it easier to measure and mark out. When done you should have a tightly wrapped and slick looking fuz.

Time to break out the thinned goop again.  Apply coats and lots of them thinly at a time.  This can take a few days. But really builds the layers. When complete it will resemble a shiny porpoise except hopefully won't have fish breath :rolleyes:

So lastly will be elevons, fin, balancing and throws.  Must get on as there's another build awaiting my attention. 

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evad

looks great , thanks for sharing your build

 

dave  

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