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Freestyler 5


Martin_N

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Phil.Taylor

Thanks for the heads-up - the servos are taped first before epoxying them in, so they will be removable. I've never yet (touch wood) trashed a 3150 - hope theres not a first time...

Phil.

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Just a note,  even though the servos are predetermined positional wise, i did notice the servos had to be spot on square with hinge line and LDS pivot, if they are not you can see the servo try to twist on its seat on full deployment of flap, there is no give in LDS.  to void any misalignment i pinned mine up before adding glue tags then tested the full movement before final glue beading the mount.  Dosnt take much to put extra stress on the servos with LDS

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1 hour ago, Alibabaj said:

Also, have 3150’s got the torque to adequately power LDS when the FS5 comes on step?

 

I've got 3150's in my Pitbulls. No problem that I've noticed. I wouldn't recommend gluing servos in either.

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26 minutes ago, oipigface said:

I've got 3150's in my Pitbulls. No problem that I've noticed. I wouldn't recommend gluing servos in either.

Hi John,

If you’re referring to the PB1 with RDS, this is less demanding setup and requires less Tq

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isoaritfirst

You do need to ensure the servo sits square to the push rod. But as Phil says it does locate length wise. 

My Jazz is the same set up. I found it easier to grip the pins on their shaft and tap the pliers with s hammer. Little at a time. F youcatch the wiper when twisting theietsbits will break off 

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10 minutes ago, isoaritfirst said:

You do need to ensure the servo sits square to the push rod. But as Phil says it does locate length wise. 

agreed , the bearing that locates in the wood rib wont hold the servo true and square. i found you have to fettle the wood mounts for the servo to get the servo to sit right if you sit the servo flat on the wing surface it wont be square with the LDS rod

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Phil.Taylor

I didn't have any wood mounts - so my install is wood-less - time will tell if LDS plus wrap&glue them in is a good idea or not. 3150s fit flat onto the top wing surface & everything lines up nicely - maybe they actually made the bearing hole to fit 3150s? I did make sure that the LDS arm was parallel to the edge of the servo cutout i.e. right angles to the hinge line.

 

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Phil.Taylor

For Brett - and anyone else who might find it useful - or not - heres my greenie method - and did I say I hate doing greenies?

First up - my trusty greenie alignment tool - been used successfully for a couple of other planes

788421447_Greenietool.JPG.50f73aa20a45efba2870520aee4c9503.JPG

Then the greenie mounting jig for the first greenie - improvised in this case with a plank of wood clamped in the Workmate & a heavy tin of paint

1327919225_Greeniejig.JPG.f19aa5a0c2d45c6aba43e43dbcc62c44.JPG

Then when thats all set properly - second greenie fits onto the first, but not fully home, so theres a gap & you can see when the edge is aligned with the other side - no chance of sticking everything together with this method

1349077345_Greeniefus.JPG.951f0567e27c409a0f896d64c7681d8f.JPG

But - things usually get messed up - and in this case I didn't rough up the greenie mounting holes in the wings - guess what - yep - they ended up not sticking - so I had to take them apart & re-do them, after suitable roughing up - and general cursing...

Well, that's it for the FS5 build thread - I hope Tom has been watching after suggesting it. Nothing more to see now - just usual control throws & CofG - then chuck it off a hill - hopefully before the F3F Nats in Wales - but the current wind direction is all wrong for my local Devon slopes - typical slope life.

Phil.

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Phil.Taylor

It flies !

Maiden flight at Whitesheet this evening - on the NE slope - in just 7-8mph wind. Never sure whether to go with camber flaps or not for a first flight in light conditions - chose camber flaps & it went away fine, just a couple of clicks of down trim needed. Picked up a bit of height, flaps neutral, mild dive test - CofG spot-on at the recommended 104mm. Took a couple more flights to get the CROW elevator comp how I like it, by which time the wind had picked up a bit to 8-12mph. Plenty of airtime to get to know it - its a really nice plane to fly - very responsive - soars well & easy to thermal - picks up speed rapidly - screams loudly - turns tightly without threatening to drop a wing - I think I might get to like this one :)

Phil.

FS5_1.jpg.5ca23b2ca2fe71d7a3fe51ff05856cb2.jpg

FS5_2.jpg.70caded58e6a4bbcb0fef5efa54165cb.jpg

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Phil.Taylor
On ‎15‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 12:51, Alibabaj said:

Hi Phil,

Having done several LDS installs, gluing the servos permanently into their carbon coffin could be problematic. LDS is very demanding on servos and just slightly catching a flap on landing I guarantee will trash a 3150 gear set. I use MKS and torn servo trays completely out of the wing when not getting the flaps away In time.

Also, have 3150’s got the torque to adequately power LDS when the FS5 comes on step?

G

Update...

Yep, I have to agree that with LDS, catching a flap on landing will strip 3150 gears - didn't get the flaps up fully in time coming in through very turbulent air last Sunday. 

But - the time honoured taped/epoxy mounting method works fine for LDS - took me about an hour this evening to remove the offending servo & replace it with a new one (Thanks Rich ! - bet you guessed what it was for). It does of course involve getting that pesky LDS pin out. Not a slopeside job, but not much is these days?

Phil.

 

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Is it April the first. Are we saying mks gears are stronger than s3150......

The speed of the model is only one factor in how much torque you need in a servo. The other obvious ones are size of the deflection and horn ratio. The latter is obviously quite bad in lds compared to a normal linkage. 

I think you will be fine Phil. Unless you want to stick the brakes out at 100mph i guess.... Every type of servo can strip the gears if you hit it right. 

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I’m surprised that you don’t get servo frames for that particular servo. Especially when this is a cutting edge f3f glider. 

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Phil.Taylor
8 minutes ago, Mikeb52 said:

I’m surprised that you don’t get servo frames for that particular servo. Especially when this is a cutting edge f3f glider. 

You can, and I've used the usual S3150 plastic mounts on other planes. Other folks have used mounting blocks with other servos.

I wasn't sure if the plastic mounts would get in the way when fitting the servo - it has to go in with a sort of twisting motion (see earlier photos) - and when using servo frames the servo has to be mounted to the frame first & that could be tricky to get it in there - if ever I build another FS5 (!) I might give it a try !

Phil.

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I get your drift Phil, could be a challenge! The good thing with the fs5, is that the control surface horns are already fitted. You have to fettle and fit them yourself with Baudis models, unless you pay them to do it. 

Mike. 

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isoaritfirst
4 hours ago, Mikeb52 said:

I’m surprised that you don’t get servo frames for that particular servo. Especially when this is a cutting edge f3f glider. 

They don't fly any better with frames in them....

I used a few pieces of ply to position and screw the servos into, on the Jazz ( exactly the same set up as Freestylers)

The frames in the Shinto allow the servos to be simply pushed into place into the LDS head. They are worth the cost.  could replace a servo on th eslope if you wanted to.

But nothing wrong with a well done wrap of tape and a smidge of epoxy. In some instances frames are just a reason to make our sport even more expensive.

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agreed dont think mounts will give you much needed space in the FS5 but i got the plywood mounts in OK but do make it more of a challenge

mks mount.jpg

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Phil.Taylor

And just to show Im not mount-phobic - right now Im replacing the Wizard Compact flap servos. Out go the Savox 0255s directly glued in - in go 3150s on mounts. Bad installation by previous owner & not enough flap throws.

But no - these mounts wouldnt fit in the FS5 with LDS.

Phil.

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  • 2 years later...

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