Gunnergolly Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 I'm slowly getting there Jef, it's hard work this internet shopping... going to have to call it a night i think . There's not that much choice for reasonably priced digital MG servos for my intended use, unless your willing to pay a bit more £££ of course. Horesji themselves recommend the DYMOND D47 which i believe is the same servo as the SD-100 servo for the ailerons, so i think i will probably go with them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Lunt Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 My Q12 is on its way through Cologne this morning. I have a spare 28mm outrunner. A bit longer than the recommended Dualsky motor but expect it to fit OK. I also have a new Turnigy Plush 30A ESC lying around to go in. Battery selection is open just now. I've ordered 6 x Bluebird BMS-101HV servos from Hyperflight and their 32mm spinner. Servos are 7.6mm thick and have the recommended torque and speed at a reasonable price. They can run direct off a 2S Lipo too. The smallest props they have though are ~14" - a bit too big I think. I have a pair of 11 x 6" so will try those for a start. Looking forward ........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 I've never used Bluebird servos before are they reliable ?. I'll be powering the electronics directly off a EnErG Pro 35 BEC ESC at 5V 3A and the Ripmax SD-100's input voltage range is better suited for 5V and offer a bit more torque (approx 1.15kg@5V compared to maybe approx 0.7kg@5V for the Bluebird HV's). Looking at the specs for the Bluebird's HV the supply voltage range is higher stated at 6 - 8.5V and to get the full stated torque of 1.1kg from the Bluebirds i would need a 2S power supply so i don't think they would work well for me at 5V.... shame as their a good price. It's a shame the SD-100's didn't have a metal gear train, despite being analogue i know that they have a proven record. The instructions say to use 0.8mm piano wire for the aileron/flap servos pushrods but i can't see that being a good solid solution as they will need to be about 100mm long. They also mention that the preferred method is to use 2mm aluminium rod threaded at both ends for the micro clevises, probably going to go for that if i can source a 2mm die. Alternatively i could just save myself the hassle, forget about the weight and use the 2mm steel rod that i already have that's threaded on one end. I'm thinking about taking up Jef's suggestion and spraying the pod red, only trouble is that the pod is very flexible and squashy so not sure which paint is best, maybe Tamiya polycarbonate would work ?. Normally i would use an etching primer first but i can't help but think that any paint on this pod will just crack unless it's can withstand flexing. Obviously once i've glued the servo tray in that will stiffen up the pod around the hand hold area but the rest of it is still quiet flexible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jef Ott Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Dad built a couple of Sapphire fuselages and sprayed them both with a tin of acrylic car spray paint. It remains flexible 2-3 years on. He found it better to mount the bell motors 'round the wrong way' onto a secondary bulkhead, then fit the nose onto that; I don't think others have ever done that though. The wing he built is a work of Art (his name was Arthur) but that is a different subject all of its own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Thanks Jef... Looks like his sprayed directly onto the plastic and it's held well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jef Ott Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 3 minutes ago, Gunnergolly said: Thanks Jef... Looks like his sprayed directly onto the plastic and it's held well. Yes, he would have given the gel coat a rub with wet 400 grit wet and dry first though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Your dad certainly sounded like a very talented modeler. I've ordered the recommended Xmotor XM2826EA-10 according to the data sheet it's hole mounting spacing is 16mm + 19mm. The pre-installed bulkhead in the pod has the 16 mm holes already drilled so i just need to drill the two holes that are 19mm apart. http://www.horejsi.cz/DataFilesEN/dualsky/XMotorInstructions_EN.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jef Ott Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 1 hour ago, Gunnergolly said: Your dad certainly sounded like a very talented modeler. He was the most talented Engineer. He mastered mechanical, electrical, software, electronic and model aeronautical engineering. Unique. It is very pleasing to me that some of his techniques and ideas continue to help others. Now get on with the preparation and assembly of that 2m model! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Blimey !!! he certainly was, he wasn't an Instrument Tech by any chance ?. Anyway i've pretty much got everything sorted out equipment wise, hopefully it will all start arriving next week and then the assembly fun begins. In the meantime i just like to "think" the assembly steps through and ask the questions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jef Ott Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 4 minutes ago, Gunnergolly said: Blimey !!! he certainly was, he wasn't an Instrument Tech by any chance ?. No he was a Mechanical Engineer that never stopped learning until July this year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 I wouldn't trust our mechanical guys with either the electrics, electronics or software ....LOL . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Lunt Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 You can get M2 (plus many more) taps and dies here: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/metric_dies.htm You can get 2.5mm dia aluminium here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/aluminium-bar-rod-shaft-1-5mm-2mm-2-5mm-1-8-4mm-4-75mm-lengths-upto-300mm-/131976733082?var=431320855347&hash=item1eba6d219a:m:m0mI67raJKU5LRpH1L3hC-g I cannot yet find 2mm aluminium straight round bar but recon it would not be difficult to reduce the end diameters to about 2mm, then run the die down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Thanks for the links Scram. Just had a quick look around myself and 2mm aluminum rod is damn hard (impossible ???) to find in this country, the best i can do is 3/32" which is 2.38mm from here:- https://maccmodels.co.uk/materials-metal/aluminum-sections/aluminium-rods-small/3-32-dia-aluminium-rod-12-long.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbyr Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Try an aluminium welding rod!!! You can get 1 at 2mm Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Lunt Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 As I don't have my plane yet, I'm now wondering why we are bothered about using alu rod. It is common in light models to use 2mm carbon rod which of course is easy to find. I HAVE LOTS!! Just a matter of fixing into the clevi with epoxy/cyano surely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Lunt Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 29 minutes ago, Bobbyr said: Try an aluminium welding rod!!! You can get 1 at 2mm Bob Where?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 1 hour ago, Scram said: Just a matter of fixing into the clevi with epoxy/cyano surely. I was just thinking along the lines of being able to adjust the linkage, but a carbon rod would certainly work and look the part on this model. I'm now thinking 2mm carbon rod with a mini clevis glued on one end and a coupler on the other end to screw the adjustable mini clevis on . http://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=PE-2MM-SS&name=stainless-steel-m2-long-pushrod-ends-for-2mm-rods-2 One minus point with the Sapphire is just how exposed the servo arms/linkages are on the bottom of the wing, one unlucky hit from a clump of grass or something could soon smash your gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssexBOF Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I used 2mm carbon tube with 1.1 mm hole, for the flaps & aileron push rods. Ends were made from 1mm piano wire bent round and a wire keeper bound & soldered to each end, that clips into the servo arm and horn. Repeated this for the rudder and elevator linkage. The servo's are set the neutral position as are the control surfaces. The ends are slid into the tube and cynoed in place. Any small adjustments are taken up with servo centre adjustment I did not fancy glueing the servo's into the wing, so opted for packing them tightly with pink foam.Lasted 2 years of use so far. Be careful with acrylic paints, as some will react to the foam cores, as the skin is porous. I opted to Solartrim which I had around as I usually add panels to my bigger models as well for visibility I will try and take some pictures of my on tomorrow and put on here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Lunt Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 2 hours ago, Gunnergolly said: One minus point with the Sapphire is just how exposed the servo arms/linkages are on the bottom of the wing, one unlucky hit from a clump of grass or something could soon smash your gears. I worried about this when I built my Moth with the pushrods under the wings. Solved it like this: ....... but I don't remember where I got the shrouds (? can't remember the proper name - A.D. don't you know) EDIT:- there you go!! Hyperflight have 'em Those Hyperflight pushrod ends look really good. I have similar brass ones. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnergolly Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 1 hour ago, EssexBOF said: I will try and take some pictures of my on tomorrow and put on here Yes please do ...thanks. 1 hour ago, Scram said: I worried about this when I built my Moth with the pushrods under the wings. Solved it like this: Both my TopmodelCZ gliders have something similar so i will definitely be fitting them onto the Sapphire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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