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New CX4 Extreme on way from Superfly


Martin Church
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1 hour ago, Richard Swindells said:

Have a close look at my cx5 at the next comp.. I didn't make the same mistake....honest !

Haha, I bet! Did you get any air time with the CX5 last week Richard? Curious to see how people are getting on with it ;)  Did the champ fly with one? 

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Martin Church
16 hours ago, Richard Swindells said:

Have a close look at my cx5 at the next comp.. I didn't make the same mistake....honest !

Richard that makes me feel a little better mate 😳

All joking aside it did make putting in the hole in the fuselage a lot easier but I'd be telling porkies if I told everyone that's why I drilled that hole there 🤠

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Richard Swindells
14 hours ago, Phil C said:

Haha, I bet! Did you get any air time with the CX5 last week Richard? Curious to see how people are getting on with it ;)  Did the champ fly with one? 

Vincent was flying his CX5's for the whole competition. He is the primary sponsored pilot for the Concept team and his results for the last 2x years seems to have been a consistent 1st place at just about every competition he has entered.

He received the models a couple of weeks before I did, it is common knowledge that these cs5's are prototypes with significant changes due in the final version (wing molds have been remilled as there was an issue with the leading edge profile that required all test pilots to sand and reshape, the fuselage will almost certainly have the boom shortened and possibly converted to a slip on nosecone. Also the aileron/launchblade layout will also likely have some attention.

Unfortunately I did not have quite enough time to get to grips with my cx5 and make the modifications in time for the contest (although I flew it a few times in the prelim event and scored easy maxes). I found it launches straighter than any other model I own and probably has the best min-sink. I'd not had a chance to test it with ballast or explore the speed range.

I expect for windier conditions the CX4 might still be a better option and being hollow molded rather than solid core, the cx4 looks amazing

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Hi Martin,

They really do fly great , even been sloping mine .

sure you are gonna love it !

Matt

 

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Martin Church

Nice colour scheme Matt 

Did you find any better build notes around the net than the RCgroup thread? There must be many of these built but I can't find anything more out there. 

I managed to glue one aileron horn in last night. You have to be very careful to get the correct bends on the pushrods to stop it bending the wing skins on the wing & aileron leading edge when assembling.

IMG_1964.JPG

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Hi Martin, 

I spoke to Rollo via the concept DLG Facebook page , he suggested to look at the German build thread too. Had a lot more pics. But most of my build I used the Nxt build guide.

On the wing trailing edge ( not the aileron) , I notched it back to small spar. It's only about a 5mm square notch . It allows the horn and control wire to move without damaging the wing skin.

hope that helps

Matt

IMG_0463.JPG

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Richard Swindells

I always use a servo horn at 4.5mm and aileron horn at 6mm from hinge. This gives full flap travel and avoids the pushrod angles needing a big slot in the top surface of the wing.

I simply set the servo at the full forward travel, and glue servo and horn into position with the aileron taped to max upwards travel. 

This will give a full 60degrees of landing flap when the servo moves to the opposite end of it's range. 

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Neil Harrison

I used a combination of RC groups and google images to make sure my build was on track.

Test flew my double carbon CX4 yesterday in not ideal conditions with 50g of ballast.

OMG what a model!  Wind no problem and still feels positive and climbs well in lift....

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Neil Harrison

It doesn't mater about putting a hole in the main shear web in the centre for the push rod as this is the neutral axis and point of no load.

As for the rear shear web, it's main purpose is to connect the top and bottom skins, yes it sees a load but no where near that of the main spar.  I have cut out a section full depth to allow full travel of the push rod.

Once you have marked the location of the horn, just saw through the carbon straw full depth, no detriment to stiffness as you will be using epoxy to mount the horn.

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Neil Harrison

When flying in wing Servos, I find it best to connect the linkage to the horn first, mark on the pushrod the location of the servo hole to make the bend. Take out push rod, bend to 90 degrees and reconnect to both the horn and now the servo. You can now move the aileron up and down and the servo will slide about freely.

Tape the ailerons to zero at both the root and tip so they cannot move. Make sure that your servo sub trim and trims are centred. (I usually make a slight bias towards the leading edge so the horn is not quite vertical) this gives increased travel for full flap.  Now the ailerons cannot move and therefore neither can the servo, you can now glue servo.

When you turn on everything will be square and set to zero!

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Neil Harrison

If you've already used either 5 or 20 minute epoxy and you are not happy once it has set.  Use a heat gun (VERY CAREFULLY) gently heat the area, this will soften the epoxy and this will allow you to pull out the horn or whatever has been glued in.  Better with two people tbh, one to heat and the other to be ready with pliers to pull out.

It sounds terrible but is very easy and works very well.

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Martin Church

Cheers Neil all excelent advice that I will now use 👍

Rollo has sent me the throwing peg Template. All I need now is recommendation of what to use for the back end controls pull spring or pushrods & what are the carbon rods for 😂

Martin

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Neil Harrison

Carbon rods are to glue to the canopy, leaving the spikes exposed at each end, this allows you to slide the canopy forwards and then rearwards to attach it....simple but very effective.

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Neil Harrison

I'm just waiting for some more of 'Mikes Mega Line' to come in stock and I'll send you some FOC 😉

I glued etched ptfe tube to each side of the fuselage from the servo to the rear of the pod. This just keeps the strings away from the ballast! 

Use the hole you drill in the underside of the fuselage and the rear pin location hole as access points to insert the glue. Just tack in place first with a drop of CA then use 5 min epoxy.

I also use about 10mm of etched ptfe where the string exists the rear fuselage for the rudder control to prevent the string rubbing on the carbon.

 

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2 hours ago, Neil Harrison said:

It doesn't mater about putting a hole in the main shear web in the centre for the push rod as this is the neutral axis and point of no load.

As for the rear shear web, it's main purpose is to connect the top and bottom skins, yes it sees a load but no where near that of the main spar.  I have cut out a section full depth to allow full travel of the push rod.

Once you have marked the location of the horn, just saw through the carbon straw full depth, no detriment to stiffness as you will be using epoxy to mount the horn.

So you didn't have to do this to the aileron horn Neil?

You cut through the spar instead?

IMG_3308.PNG

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Martin Church

That's exactly what I did too!

Dremeled through It so the horn sits on the bottom skin & put plenty of epoxy in with ground carbon dust mixed in.

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Martin Church
39 minutes ago, Phil C said:

So you didn't have to do this to the aileron horn Neil?

You cut through the spar instead?

IMG_3308.PNG

Is that the wing in the photo phil?

im guessing yours is a different layup to mine cause I've not got the Samori cloth on mine.

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