Jump to content
Tone-the-glider

New F5J build

Recommended Posts

SilentPilot

CJS,

Would you be happy to use the NTM motor direct drive?

I'm not sure what diameter the nose is. I think the guy I got it from said it took a 32mm Spinner but I think it’s more like a 28...

I went for the Hacker, the gearbox should be a nice spacer up to the nose. My 32mm motor that was the original plan has no chance of fitting at all!!!

 

Tony

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CJS

Hi Tony, yep, direct drive in most of my models over the past 5 years, occasionaly one has gone GB but only if I have no option, a last resort.  Some times one needs to jugle a bit, accept that the smaller higher reving prop is less efficient, always use a 65c (constant output) battery, you will loose out on lower 'c' ratings.  The HTM is one I am thinking about putting in my current 3.5m new build, I have a stock of verious DD 28's and 35's all have been or are destined for use in gliders as and when.

The watt meter is your friend, do not exceed the motors max amps and allow an extra 10 amp safty margin at least on the ESC.  Any doubdts in your mind go Hacker A20, its a top motor.

I mentioned 4s, I play that game too, I will be putting a 4s Bolt 850mah 65c in if I use the HTM.  Size and weight matches a 3s 65c 100mah battery.  So what I do is my own thing, occasionaly accept compromises but enjoy my flying as economicaly as possible, thats what its all about.

. . . Mmm, I have to back peddle a little, I have just read your first post again . . . Dry weight 1.5kg, 1300mah 3s 40c . . . That puts a '?' over the HTM, the final flying weight will be nearer 1900/2000grs you will need 4s powering the HTM with a large diamiter fine pitch prop, only watt meter testing will give you the right combination.  Moving the Hacker into number one spot.  This kin'da explains why I keep away from 30mm noses.  My models in that weight range are/were 38mm and use 35 DD.

A thought, cutting the nose a little shorter, but it depends on the profile to give 36-38mm.  This of course depends on your experiance and confidence?

So Yes Tony, tossing it all in the air, I think it would come down a bit of a lemon squeeze . . . 'Hacker 20A' . . . and all the flexabuility you will need for future model powertrains.

CJS

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SilentPilot

The OP here isn’t me!
I was going to start my own thread but I saw this and just tagged in...

My glider is a Claymore. It’s got a real thin nose. So thin and tapered that I wouldn’t gain any meaningful extra diameter unless i came WAY back, but then is kind of an oval/egg shape that isn't suited to DD motors at all.

I’ve ordered the Hacker now. More expensive I know but It’s got better specs. I’ll need all the help I can get because mine is ~2kg and ~4m. Certainly the one of the biggest I’ve got :blink:

I too plan on using Bolt HV batteries but only 3S 850mAh. 



Tony

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pete beadle

Hi Tony

The biggest problem I found when using a Hacker A20 motor is that you can't retrofit a gearbox, it's definitely NOT an option once you've already bought the motor

You either have to go with a motor/gearbox setup, or, just a motor with a smaller prop from the start.......which A20 have you bought?

Finally, if you're building/competing on a budget it is NEVER good to buy something new and untried on impulse.....careful research and buying stuff as pre-owned as the Claymore itself is always better....OK you may only get 95-97% performance with pre-owned gear, but it matches your learning curve better

A bit like trying to learn to drive in a Ferrari I'm afraid!

The problems you are having with the thin, oval shape of your Claymore's nose are a good example.......why do you think the previous owner fitted such a high-spec motor? It wasn't just to enjoy spending lots of money, it was because it was the motor that fitted! 20/20 hindsight I'm afraid....I used to do it all the time.....now, when I buy pre-owned, I do lots of research and ask lots of questions before buying that particular bargain.....I often find that I'm too late and the bargain model is sold by the time I make an offer, but that is the number one drawback of buying pre-owned. Sorry, but in the competition world, high initial cost is usually expected and planned for.

One comment my dear old Grandad used to make is apt here I think......"The owner of the Rolls-Royce gets the pleasure of showing people what he can afford, but its the chauffeur that gets the pleasure of driving it":D

Regards

Pete

BARCS1702

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SilentPilot
35 minutes ago, pete beadle said:

You either have to go with a motor/gearbox setup, or, just a motor with a smaller prop from the start.......which A20 have you bought?

I did get one with a gearbox. I compared a few different types, read reviews and worked out which should be best :) 

 

Tony

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.