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cirrusRC

Spinner design differences for a RES glider

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cirrusRC

I currently have the following spinner and cone.  (1.jpg).   This is clamped to the motor shaft by tightening the 2 hex screws.  Additional holes will be required in the cone in order to tighten the hex screws once secured.

1.jpg

 

The alternative spinner is also below (2.jpg).   This uses 2 grub screws either side which screw tight against the motor shaft.   I've seen it suggested that a flat is filed on the motor shaft to secure the grub screw,  I've also seen is stated that only 1 grub screw is required.   The existing holes on the cone can be used to tighten the grub screws.

2.JPG

I've not used either of these before,   wondering which method provides the most security and less chance of a spinner getting thrown.

thanks for any advice.

 

3.jpg

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Scram

I would file flats for the simple reason that the grub screw(s) will indent the shaft (unless it is very hard) making it difficult, if the yoke is a good fit, to get it off.

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Steve J

I have a yoke similar to (1) and I've never had a problem with it.

If you use (2), I would replace the grub screws with decent cap head machine screws and use a bit of Loctite blue when you do them up.

Steve

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cirrusRC

Many thanks gents - a couple more questions.

1) for attaching the prop blades.   Nip the the bolts up, but lose enough to allow props to fold?  Apply Loctite to secure?

2) I've seen people use elastic bands around the blades and yoke to force the blades to fold - a good idea?   I assume band is slack enough not to overcome centrifugal force but tight enough to pull in the blades when not rotating.   

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Steve J

The nut should be a nyloc, so no need for loctite.

I've never used an elastic band.

Steve

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AnthonyB

In my book there are 3 spinners - The above(Reisenauer), the Vladimir ones and the RFM ones. These are the best value. Neither require Loctite. The single grub screw seems to be for the smaller ones. I use a small grindstone in a Dremel to place a small notch where the screw goes. The "pinch" ones are great, but can remain very tight when undone. I would not bother about it coming off - how much power will you get from a 28mm outrunner.

I had a very tight fit for a 28mm outrunner and had to rear mount it. Hence, I had to use the bolt on 5mm shaft. All I had was a 4mm holed one. In the end I ran a die down the shaft to the base and tapped the hole with M5. It then screwed on and then clamped up. I have not tried to remove it yet. Last century I used the elastic bands that my wife did her horses mane with. If you look at the prop centre there are groves machined round the ends. These are for 1.6mm rubber O-rings - for yours about 32mm ID....... Far better than small bands which can be trapped between prop and holder.

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Woodstock

The lower prop will hang down untidily unless you use a rubber ring. A groove isn't essential - what is, is that the cone has a few mm sticking out (to the rear) past the yoke, to make room for the ring. Not all spinners are made that way. Apart from O-rings, you can make up your own elastic using thin bungee-type elastic in a woven outer (sort of thing used inside tent poles to stop them from running away when they are dis-assembled). You can then colour-coordinate!

If you want a REALLY neat folding of the props, an off-set or cranked yoke is great. I am building the AndREaS in the photo above, and am using the Vladimir's cranked type 30mm spinner from Hyperflight (their motor too).

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cirrusRC

thanks guys - useful information,  hadn't seen the offset yokes before.

Woodstock - good luck with the Andreas build.   The pic above is from my dad's Andreas build progress - I got him the kit for xmas.

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Woodstock

Cool! Thanks!

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