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Jamie

Shadow 2 set up advice

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Jamie

 

Hi

I'm planning to buy a new shadow 2. This will be my first composite glider so some tips on setting one up with the correct electronics would be much appreciated.

I'm planning on following this (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2556474-NAN-models-Shadow-2 )build thread to guide me through it. 

Motor - the issue here is balancing the model.  I was thinking of using a hacker a20 (https://www.westlondonmodels.com/Electric/Motors/Hacker-A20-Geared/Hacker-A20-6XL-Geare.asp as this seems a popular choice.  I know hyper flight do some more expensive inrunners but would the hacker work? At 130g would it be too heavy? Any alternatives? Are the £200 inrunners worth the extra money?

Esc - I'm thinking of getting a castle 60 (https://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=46_1060_1061&products_id=28611) it's 30mm wide.  Will it fit?

Anyone who had got a shadow I would love to hear what you've got .

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Rayg

Hi Jamie,

I'm using a Tenshock Viper 5200KV motor on a reisenaur gearbox, from Flightech and a YGE 60 amp ESC with a three cell Tattu 1050 lipo. Prop is a Graupner CAM 12x6

Model balances at 150mm from leading edge with 10grams of lead on the lipo. Flying weight is 1490 grams.

Hope this helps.

 

 

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Rayg

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Nick Jackson

I don't have a Shadow 2 but fly similar models. 

Agree with Ray about Reisenauer boxes with Tenshock motors - light and robust and have been a bit cheaper than Powerline. 

I and others fly a different Castle Creations ESC: Castle Phoenix Edge Lite 50. Quite slim and output voltage can be fine tuned to meet the specified requirements of different servo makes. Castle Link USB gizmo highly recommended for programming CC ESCs if you don't already have one. 

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Jamie

Are people using the pre-fitted firewalls on the NAN models (a fibre glass one) are are you taking them out and replacing with a metal one?

I'm asking cos the radio-carbon art guy paul naton suggested swapping them out.

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Jamie
On ‎4‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 16:28, Rayg said:

IMG_20180411_191841.jpg

thanks for your pic and post, really useful to compare others layouts.

It looks like you have the flight pack, motor and ESC all at the front. I'm surprised it doesn't come out very nose heavy. I will certainly look at this as a layout option when configuring the CG.

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Rayg

That's the reason that I used the YGE esc and the Tattu battery, they are not only light but slim and can go side by side.The speed controller is soldered direct to the motor. I also used a metal motor mount which allows cooling to the motor. After that it allows you to move the elevator and rudder servos back or forth to get the c.g. correct. But before any work on the fuselage install the servos in the wing as this could effect the final positions in the fuselage.

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Kikapu

I have always used a 40 amp esc with my A20 6XLs and not experienced any problems and I'm sure the same would apply to the Viper 5200. Ray's point about the advantage of fitting a lipo alongside the esc will help, I'm sure, as is his point about shortening the gap between the motor and esc.  HobbyKing sell lots of thin switching bec esc's.
You might have a problem keeping the 3 wires off the can of the Hacker motor as the nose on that model looks very narrow, but there are ways around that.  Copying Reisenauer's might be worth doing. http://www.reisenauer.de/artikeldetails.php5?aid=2006  You might have a problem balancing the model using the Hacker with its 130g weight, but I'm sure there must be ways to configure the rest of the furniture to arrive at a satisfactory answer. 
Good luck anyway.
 

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Rayg

That's the reason that I used the YGE esc and the Tattu battery, they are not only light but slim and can go side by side.The speed controller is soldered direct to the motor. I also used a metal motor mount which allows cooling to the motor. After that it allows you to move the elevator and rudder servos back or forth to get the c.g. correct. But before any work on the fuselage install the servos in the wing as this could effect the final positions in the fuselage.

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Rayg

The main reason that I used the Viper +gb over the Hacker+gb was the weight, the Viper unit weighs 77gms. the Hacker is 130gms. that's a big difference for an increase of about £25. To fit out the fuselage the same as the picture you will need an ESC that is no thicker than 8mm. That's why things can be put right up the front. If you're not worried about the final weight of the model then this will not matter. The other thing of course is the Viper is an inrunner (not wires to bother about) the Hacker is an outrunner.

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Jamie

I got a typhoon 2w in runner in the end. The fiberglass motor mount seems well glued in so changing it for a metal one I think will be impossible without cutting the nose short, which as my first composite build I'm trying to avoid that.

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Jamie

OK so next question...wing servo mounting.

before I plaster the inside of my fresh new wings with epoxy, I thought I would just run this past you and see what ya think.

I'm using Spektrum A7020 servos. They came out of previous glider and they work well.

I've made a plywood servo mount to screw the servos into. Simple thus far.

But what if I want to upgrade my servos? what if I want to take out my servo mount? I'm probably being paranoid but you only get one chance at this.

I thought the best way to be able to remove the servo mounts would be  to mount the servo mounts onto a mount... That way I could scratch a blade along the strip of plywood to remove the servo mount and glue without touching the carbon in the wing. 

Regarding the glue, I did a test of 2:1 microbaloons to epoxy both this came out still quite epoxy like and difficult to remove from my test so I think I will try 1:1 balloons to epoxy which may be easier.

20180511_194034.jpg

20180511_194017.jpg

20180511_194211.jpg

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Kikapu

I'd keep two of the Spektrum servos as spare flap servos and (no need for complicated servo trays then) and buy a couple of lighter servos to actuate your ailerons.  Flap servos are the ones that get a hammering.   Have a look at Bluebird or MKS for 10g servos for your ailerons.
Peter  

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Nicholls
On ‎13‎/‎04‎/‎2018 at 16:14, Rayg said:

Hi Jamie,

I'm using a Tenshock Viper 5200KV motor on a reisenaur gearbox, from Flightech and a YGE 60 amp ESC with a three cell Tattu 1050 lipo. Prop is a Graupner CAM 12x6

Model balances at 150mm from leading edge with 10grams of lead on the lipo. Flying weight is 1490 grams.

Hope this helps.

 

 

Ray did you mean 115mm instead of the 150mm stated? Recommended is 117mm without ballast and 113mm  with.

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Jamie
1 hour ago, Kikapu said:

I'd keep two of the Spektrum servos as spare flap servos and (no need for complicated servo trays then) and buy a couple of lighter servos to actuate your ailerons.  Flap servos are the ones that get a hammering.   Have a look at Bluebird or MKS for 10g servos for your ailerons.
Peter  

I guess that's a little easier on the wallet. If spektrum guaranteed they would continue their line of servos then getting replacements wouldn't be an issue but I'm not confident in that.  I can envisage in a years time when one of my a7020 servos goes wrong, they will be discontinued.  Hence why I'm keen to be able to change the servo mounts aswell. 

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Rayg

Sorry, my mistake, yes I fly with the cg at 115 mm whether ballasted or not . As for the servos, there are a few different makes that finish the same size so changing to a different make would not be a problem. Blue Bird, MKS, KST, Turnigy.

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mikef

I found these figures on the NAN website under Shadow F5J.  Can I assume that they appropriate for the Shadow 2 F5J as well?

Should the flaps deflect with the ailerons for roll control?

43642F71-A91F-44E4-9594-F923F299A24D.png

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satinet

30mm elevator for a fixed stab?

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Nicholls

I used 15mm as elevator to start with but reduced that from memory (can't check at the moment. Also see http://f5jpro.com/f5j-models/66-shadow-2-f5j noting it also shows what to me is too much elevator movement.

 

 

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