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oipigface

How to unplug sticky wings?

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rwhitt

I had a joiner stick on a summers day, all the force I could give it wouldn't shift, the other half shouted freezer block from the cool box!....indeed literally seconds and it was loose and off!

I would try the same to see if it would work, if not dry it out for quite a while and then try again

Three days flying on the trot....very nice 👍

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pete beadle

Hi Mike

While I fully understand your thinking in this, and appreciate  the  logic and reasoning behind it, I'm sorry to say it would be impossible for me personally to do as you suggest

This is very probably a major failing on my part, but I'm happy to say it's a failing I'm happy to live with

All my life I have been taught to reject short cuts and apply proper engineering practices whenever I am presented with a difficult engineering problem, and all my life I've looked up to the people that having been telling me this, because I have never been able to find fault in what they said

Now it's too late to change the habits formed over a lifetime, so let's hope OPF can find success in what he's doing now, and not need to try a solution that, yes I would call unnecessarily drastic

Regards

Pete

BARCS1702

 

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satinet

I like hitting things with a big hammer

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satinet

Hows big is the gap, if you can get a piece of wood in either side you could create a kind of reverse press with threaded bar.

 

Although the big questions is how did it go in the car?

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George Young
7 hours ago, oipigface said:

Thanks, Mike. I hadn't thought of that. Let's hope that a less destructive method works soon. George's 'hammer' is still a possibility, although if I understand it correctly, it too will need something thin down the joint that is strong enough to withstand the forces without bending. I've been thinking of buying a couple of steel rules. They would certainly be less prone to giving way than my recycled greenhouse staging.

John. 

Re. my “slide hammer” suggestion. I am thinking that it would be better to put some lengths of gaffer/glass fibre tape on the opposite wing as well (top and bottom) extending past that tip too and end in another loop. This end could be attached to something immovable. That way the pulling impact force would be through the wing/joiner and not the fuselage. I am still not convinced it is the answer but could be worth a try.

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Dave Elam

It's quite a problem you have there.

Can you get a steel ruler in the gap between the wing and fuselage? If so then you have a vertical face to apply a force to. By force I mean the shock of a hammer blow. Start with soft blows and work up in severity stopping at the point before some severe damage may be done!

I'd also put some protective covering around the areas where the hammerhead may accidentally come into contact with the moulded components.

Regarding penetrating oil. From experience with nuts and bolts I've always found PlusGas to be better at penetrating.

 

 

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oipigface
47 minutes ago, satinet said:

Hows big is the gap, if you can get a piece of wood in either side you could create a kind of reverse press with threaded bar.

That's exactly what I have been doing, using 1/2mm aluminium angle from the edge of greenhouse staging. 

50 minutes ago, satinet said:

Although the big questions is how did it go in the car?

It just fitted, nose down, wings diagonal, one up,  one down in the back of my Vauxhall Vivaro van!

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SilentPilot

There you go then. If the servos work just leave the wing on!!!!

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Les

Use some of that dirty curry from the Indian in Bridgend, the last time I ate there it unplugged me the following morning 💩💩💩💩😆

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Skip

pop it in a small room with a dehumidifier and heater for a couple of days. Any liquid in the joiner box will make it nearly impossible to get out (Hydrolock). As the moisture is drawn out of the plane, hopefully swollen bits will reduce and you can continue along your merry route.

Wedges made of Polypropylene used to relieve fibreglass parts from their moulds would come in handy.

I'm with Mike once all avenues are exhausted 😊

Dry her out John  😎

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Redbird

I think I would dangle it spanwise with a decent weight on the lower tip, taped on, and shock/clout the joiner area regularly. Have cushions to collect it in case it separates overnight.

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Witch_1

I'm with Skip.  Most plastics expand when damp.  It is likely the joiner resin has absorbed damp - which will take a lot of time to dry.   Whenever pondering your next move overnight, consider placing it in a warm dry place like over a radiator.  (Maybe then get it really cold to try extract as others have suggested - leave it out on a frosty night?).

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pete beadle

Hi Skip and Witch1

D'you mean like this?

Quote......."First thing to do is get some padded oven gloves, then put everything in a warm and stable environment to dry out, airing cupboard, boiler room, anywhere warm and DRY and well ventilated.

Have you got wing bags? When the airframe is 100% dry put the wings back in the bags and don't work on them anywhere there is the slightest bit cold or damp.....unquote.........please see my original reply at the start of this string:thumbsup::yes:

Skip, I agree it's probably a type of hydrolock, trouble is, as you can see, this was the first thing I suggested too.........

Regards

Pete

BARCS1702

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oipigface

This is turning into a real talking point, isn't it? Pity we're not in the pub!

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Skip

Dehumidifiers are the dogs danglies!  Takes the moisture out of damp bricks in my garage (and causes cracks in your house if you're not careful 😂 ) 

I think the pub would be great! Bloody nightshifts. ...

 

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Redbird
1 hour ago, oipigface said:

His is turning into a real talking point, isn't it? Pity we're not in the pub!

Pity we're not in your workshop getting the job done!

See you Sat.

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pete beadle

Hi OPF

Just a thought

When the airframe was returned to you, was it covered in dirt and grime? but particularly were there any GREEN marks indicating plant growth, mould etc?

Did you clean it up first, to be better able to inspect the damage?

I'm trying to account for this stickiness by thinking that perhaps there is some sort of vegetation growth starting in the cracks activated by the soap and water(?) used to clean it?

Might that be a possibility?

I hope this isn't going to be a typical pub talking point........they tend to go on forever, round and round in circles, good lord!, just thinking about it is giving me a dry throat.......tea time!:):thumbsup:

Regards

Pete

BARCS1702

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isoaritfirst

Time gentlemen please!

and time waits for no man.

Power up the Dremel. 

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pete beadle

Hi Mike

According to OPF's post yesterday Quote - "but I'm not going to be able to try it until Monday at the earliest - I'm going flying three days in a row at the weekend!" can I suggest NOT powering up the Dremel just yet!

....... and, being a bit boring I know, can I suggest a few other sayings, "more haste less speed", "think twice act once" and any others that suggest NOT being in a rush to start cutting........you never know, there could still be someone out there  who has experienced similar problems, and may  just be waiting to see if someone else is going to make their suggestion for them, so they don't have to pop their head over the parapet just yet........

As you all know, I have used the resource of the wide-ranging knowledge of fellow BARCS members several times over the years and have found that the information I'm searching for, takes time to percolate through to that one chap that actually knows what I'm asking about.......the info regarding the "Nymph" being a perfect case in point......it was two weeks before the chap who had what I needed, to get in touch, and solved the problem of the conflicting information I had received so far.......so.......if I were you OPF I'd hang on just a little longer before making that first irreversible cut........ oh dear, doesn't that sound really ominous!:(

Regards

Pete

BARCS1702

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Phil.Taylor

Theres one sure fire tried-and-tested method of getting F3F wings to slide off...

go fly it WITHOUT taping the wings on - works a treat (ask Joel?) 😁

Phil.

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