F5J Tx set-up

[mikef]

I've never had a 'proper' big electric glider but I'm setting my first one up at the moment.  I know how I want my control surface servos to operate and how I'm going to organise my flight phases and spoiler operation. (Spoilers on 'throttle stick')

It's the motor start and control that I'm wondering about.

I need to be able to hold the glider to launch it.  I know I need a safety switch to get the esc signal to zero.  I can set up a power level control, probably, 'loiter', 200 metres in 30 secs' and full power on a three position switch."  Initial power level set before slot starts then easily variable.

I'm looking for techniques to use one hand to operate the safety switch and then start the motor and a flight timer on release?

How do you do it?  I have a spring loaded button and a couple of switches I can use with my Tx hand (Royal EVO)

If this answer is already here somewhere, please point me at it - my searches found nothing.

 

 

[DaveH]

Hi,  I started in competitive flying a couple of seasons ago  (although my results placings might suggest that I started last week!).         I found that OpenTx on my Qx7 tranny offers huge functional possibilities.            I use a flight mode for the throttle enabled phase, using the throttle stick.   I have two switches that "kill" or defeat the throttle, one is the mode switch, giving either throttle "enabled" or "glide" mode (no throttle or flap), the other uses the top Tx mounted spring loaded switch that kills the throttle when held against the spring.   This arrangement allows me to hold the Tx in my right hand with the throttle killed, and to launch the glider with my left.  As the switch is released the throttle (with the stick at max) is enabled and also a 30s countdown timer started.     It works well for me, although i do know of others that prefer to use a switched throttle, or in one case, with the throttle function on a spring loaded switch.      

A couple of throttle related performance features might be worth considering..    If the throttle is ever engaged (set to >min) during the glide, the flight is voided, probably automatically by the gizmo.   Different power settings are useful for climbing to height nearby and for flying to gain the right height whilst also getting upwind or to a more distant place.  

My flap function is enabled on my throttle stick when switched to "landing" mode.   It seems intuitive to me to have the max flap deflection at minimum stick and a deadband where no flap operates for the top 30% of the stick travel.     

Good luck with yours...

Dave  

[SilentPilot]

Hi,

I used to have the motor on the 'throttle' stick but I've moved on from that now.

The chances of inadvertently starting the motor or changing mode and instantly deploying full Crow were just too high. Especially if I intend on entering any comps.

I now use the rotary dial for throttle with an override cut switch on the top of the transmitter. 

In practice now the dial stays at about 80% and I just operate the switch. Sometimes as part of my downwind checks I wind the dial up to 100%. If I decide to abort the landing I want all the power available to me when I flick the switch!

[John Minchell]

Mike

Take a look at the Face Book group that Frank Skilbeck  started for the Profi and the Royal Pro - here https://www.facebook.com/groups/442949249226372 

There are many useful posts on there and under the files tab on the left there are lots of tutorials which are a great help.

I have a Royal Pro which is similar.  I set the crow brakes on the throttle stick and use one of the side switches as a master throttle cut to disable it.

By using one of the sliders as the new throttle control you can slowly increase to full throttle allowing a gearbox to have an easier time instead of on or off with a switch.

A timer can also be started using the throttle slider as a start switch.

Hope that helps.

John M

[PeteMitchell]

13 hours ago, mikef said:

I'm looking for techniques to use one hand to operate the safety switch and then start the motor and a flight timer on release?

I think a good Tx harness is important. It holds your Tx stable so that your throttle hand will not need to ‘grip’ your tx when you are launching. This makes whatever your switch configuration is easier to operate. A neck strap is OK but its single central mounting point will not keep the Tx stable like a harness with two mounting points.

I use a locking switch as my arming switch/throttle kill. This has to be lifted and pushed forward to arm the motor and cannot be accidentally moved. This is important if you use firmware in your AMRT which will not allow a motor re start. My throttle is a rotary switch on the side of my Tx.  

I have found that all spring loaded switches are unreliable so never use them for anything in a throttle setup.

[Ian Duff]

Mike.

Probably everyone has there own approach but if it helps I use channel 8 as the motor channel. Channel 8 is a rotary knob. Here is the more interesting bit...

I have the rotary knob slaved to a 3 position switch - off, reduced power and full power.  The switch is activated by my left thumb while I launch right handed.

The reduced power setting can be varied by using the rotary knob and generally I set the 'reduced power' level when I trim the plane before the comp start (ie takes account of conditions on the day). During the comp I can fine tune or re-tune the reduced power setting as conditions change.

Hope that helps.

Ian

[mikef]

Thanks Ian, that’s near to what I have done so far.  The throttle is set on a slider and there's a switch to turn on for launch.

I had a ground test today but there was a problem - more news in the morning....

 

[Hydeflyer]

I'm just experimenting with a new f5j programme and have set the flaps on the conventional throttle stick on my Aurora 9 and the throttle on the left slider. No matter what I try, the slider is off at the top of its travel and full on at the bottom, whereas I prefer a conventional throttle to be max at the top and off at the bottom. Does anyone know how to reverse the slider operation so the its min at the bottom and max at the top? Reversing the channel in the main settings doesn't do it! Although (as we all know?) if you reverse the normal throttle channel it most certainly does reverse the travel, as I once found out the hard way, thinking it would reverse the motor spin!

[Mr_SMO]

## (although my results placings might suggest that I started last week!)##

So long as you enjoy yourself, that's all that really matters. 

[EssexBOF]

This was a problem to me, when going over to electric glider some 17 years ago now!!.  At that ime, I used the ever faithful Mpx 3030, even to using it on 2.4. 

Flying Mode 1, this posed problems, using the Throttle stick for both Throttle and Flap/Crow Braking. On the 3030, I used the 3 programme switch to change the functions in flight, so as the Stick was throttle, then switching it to Crow after the power run.

Being RHanded this involved using my chin to open the Throttle for launching.. I wanted to modify the 3030, to have a rotary slider on the L Hand side of the Tx, but never solved the problem of the Tx, having a split case, through the sides.

So changed over to the Taranis X9D, in 2015, so as to have the that choice, which can be used for L H flyers, as there is the reciprical switch on the other side. Never wanted  a non adjustable switch for either Throttle or Crow.

You should have another switch to arm the motor control as well. I use the SE switch on the X9D, for this, but after a problem last year, now have that in th OFF position towards me, so as you push it away from you to arm the motor.

Although a harness would have helped never having flown with one for some 50 + years, tried it but never liked it. Each to his own as they say.

BARCS 230