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DLG Virgin Model Choice


BigT
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On 04/09/2019 at 23:24, Tooks said:

What servos have you gone with for the build?

The nose is very tight, so I went for 4 x Bluebird AMG mini servos. I used masking tape wrapped around them and glued them all in line on top of  the piece of glass fibre supplied with the kit, slightly offset so that there was room for control runs. I trimmed down the smallest servo arms until there was only one hole left, and connected my pull strings to the front servos and my aileron wires to the rearward ones. 

The most stressful part for me was cutting the slots in the fuse for the aileron control rods, measure 6 or 7 times and cut once was my mantra! I ended up cutting and mounting the rudder pull string on the wrong side, the left side, which is wrong for a right handed thrower like me. That’s according to conventional wisdom anyway, which is to ensure that the pull string pulls away from whichever side you have mounted your throwing peg. I believe  t’s to stop any unwanted rudder movement during the launch, but I find my rudder torsion spring does a good enough job on this small model and my throws, so it still launches straight.  I also mounted my elevator so the pull string pulls it up, and the torsion spring pulls down.  Others set this up the other way so that the model climbs and stalls repeatedly should the elevator pull string fail, rather than go nose in/outside loop like mime would.

Back to the nose, you will need the smallest receiver you can find, I’m a spektrum guy so used a 6 channel Lemon Rx which I fitted in front of the servo tray in the nose. That leaves just enough room for a 1s lipo battery on top (a 150mah) and a couple of grams of ballast. All up weight for mine is around 116g, so a lightweight build, even with a couple of wing repairs.

I found the best way to secure the canopy cover was to make some push on retainers from sellotape, just stuck to itself so that they slide on and off. You start by sticking a cm or so of sellotape on the canopy in situ, then reverse it and go around the canopy and fuse until you have a loop of tape stuck to itself. Twist the loop to stick the bit that’s stuck to the canopy to the rest of the tape and you should have a perfect fitting loop that’s not sticky on either side, and cut to width.  It’s much harder to explain than do! 

I can take some photos if it would help, unfortunately I didn’t take any during the build. 

Can I ask how you fixed the g10 plate to the fuz? My expectation is that at some stage a servo may fail and therefore the plate would need to be pulled out? Also you say the plate was fixed off centre. How does that work with the aileron rods?

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On 07/09/2019 at 09:56, BigT said:

Can I ask how you fixed the g10 plate to the fuz? My expectation is that at some stage a servo may fail and therefore the plate would need to be pulled out? Also you say the plate was fixed off centre. How does that work with the aileron rods?

Hi Big T,

Apologies for the show reply, been a busy week! 

I’ve had a look at the model, and I put two servos below the g10 plate and two above, towards the rear of the nose hatch opening. 

I stuck my g10 plate down with an old model helicopter gyro double sided sticky pad, cut to size and stuck to the lower two servos.. They’re very strong and don’t move as the foam is quite dense. 

My actual servos are wrapped in some plastic tape around the body and stuck with a blob of epoxy between the g10 plate and the masking tape. If I needed to remove a servo I can cut the tape and remove it, clean up and tape, epoxy and fit a new one. If it’s a lower servo that goes, I can pull the gyro pad apart and get the g10 plate out  completely.

The g10 plate is central, the servos are staggered slightly so that the servo arms don’t stick out too far and rub against the fuse. I mounted them so the bare servo arm spline was level with the edge of the g10 plate and the arm clears the edge. 

Perhaps these pics will help? I’ve stuck some Velcro on the upper side of the g10 to hold the tiny battery in place. Underneath that is my Rx. 

It was my first ‘proper’ DLG build, and I made the mistake with the rudder pull string being on the wrong side, but it flies great anyway! 

 

25B70821-6EF2-4A2B-833D-6F09A5B93308.jpeg

9A420754-C9EC-4F8A-8EB7-C463420F5CBC.jpeg

535D1E6F-E570-4696-BF63-2A6770D1C13F.jpeg

E8679C24-C0BA-434F-8BAD-F3CAD0A8732D.jpeg

F0C15362-F2AB-4A36-836B-3FDE79A09D3F.jpeg

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its important not to weaken the boom near the tailset as it will fail during a hard landing.     For the elevator pull string see this thread on best place for making the hole (reinforced by the pylon mount)

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=34849695&postcount=1159

for the rudder you should put the hole right in the end of the boom which is part of the fin.  See red dot in pic below.

I use kite string and very thin PFTE tubing near the holes.

 

 

Capture.JPG

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Thanks cirrusRC, there’s a lot of things I learnt after the event on my Hawk build, you’ll be pleased to know that my CX4 is exactly like you suggest! I have used a little epoxy and carbon sheet to reinforce that area, I wasn’t happy after I’d made the cuts.

I’ve had some rough landings with the Hawk, so far it’s holding up, but I suppose the inevitable will happen one day!

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On 11/09/2019 at 22:30, Tooks said:

Hi Big T,

Apologies for the show reply, been a busy week! 

I’ve had a look at the model, and I put two servos below the g10 plate and two above, towards the rear of the nose hatch opening. 

I stuck my g10 plate down with an old model helicopter gyro double sided sticky pad, cut to size and stuck to the lower two servos.. They’re very strong and don’t move as the foam is quite dense. 

My actual servos are wrapped in some plastic tape around the body and stuck with a blob of epoxy between the g10 plate and the masking tape. If I needed to remove a servo I can cut the tape and remove it, clean up and tape, epoxy and fit a new one. If it’s a lower servo that goes, I can pull the gyro pad apart and get the g10 plate out  completely.

The g10 plate is central, the servos are staggered slightly so that the servo arms don’t stick out too far and rub against the fuse. I mounted them so the bare servo arm spline was level with the edge of the g10 plate and the arm clears the edge. 

Perhaps these pics will help? I’ve stuck some Velcro on the upper side of the g10 to hold the tiny battery in place. Underneath that is my Rx. 

It was my first ‘proper’ DLG build, and I made the mistake with the rudder pull string being on the wrong side, but it flies great anyway! 

 

25B70821-6EF2-4A2B-833D-6F09A5B93308.jpeg

9A420754-C9EC-4F8A-8EB7-C463420F5CBC.jpeg

535D1E6F-E570-4696-BF63-2A6770D1C13F.jpeg

E8679C24-C0BA-434F-8BAD-F3CAD0A8732D.jpeg

F0C15362-F2AB-4A36-836B-3FDE79A09D3F.jpeg

That looks like an excellent option but I don’t need a huge amount. Any idea where I can get just a few meters?

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23 hours ago, BigT said:

That looks like an excellent option but I don’t need a huge amount. Any idea where I can get just a few meters?

I’m not sure I understand? Did you mean to post in your build thread about the kite string?

Cant’ help on that one, I use Beadalon wire and ferrules. 

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