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alanmorton

Tracker 100s conversion to electric

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alanmorton

I am looking to convert one of my tracker 100s models to electric to make evening flying easier, I have done some electric over the years but nothing like this.

I have been asking around for advice but not actually spoken to anyone who has done this already. My trackers are all the original Bill Dulson made and are not the lightest, my current set up has an all up flying weight of 4.18 lb as a glider. 

I have looked at motors / speed controllers etc.. but could do with some advice before spending out. The set up I was looking at is below, would this give me a decent launch and reasonable battery time or is there a better set up.

Motor, Tornado Thumper 3548/05 brushless 710w 900kv 157g

Speed controller, Overlander xp2 60A spec brushless esc rtf

Battery, 2700mah 3 cell / 11.1v lipo 50c constant 95c burst 220g

Folding prop, 13” x 5”

Thanks

Alan Morton

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EssexBOF

Think the motor is a bit of over kill, as a rule of thumb is 200 watts per kilo, so 450 would be OK ESC ok  or 55amp one. Think the wing loading is going to be high in relation to a bigger model.. Have a look on site for a seconhand in runner with wires from the back with a gearbox,as they will fit inside the fuselage better.Also smaller battery sat 1800 3 cell. Does it have a sheath nose?. For sport flying only I reckon.

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alanmorton

Thanks for the input, I chose this motor as I didn’t want it to be under powered and have the room for it in the nose with enough room for the wires,  this motor was mentioned by Stan Yeo from Phoenix models as a possibility,  you are correct about the wing loading but trackers do cope well with ballast so not too worried if it’s a bit heavy. In your opinion would my set up work without ruining any of the components ?

it does have a sheath nose at the moment but I am going to alter it and make it a permanent nose with access hatch, not 100% sure exactly how but will work it out as I go along, I have a mold for the nose cones that I made myself and will probably modify that and make a new front end. The fitting of everything I can do it’s just the electrics that are new to me. Is there any other advantage to an in runner with gear box other than size.  Won’t be used in competition just for extra flying time and to save putting the winch out

thanks again for the reply

Alan

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cirrusRC

Ecalc shows the following for the data you provided.     I wasn't sure on the wing area so used standard 100".      

a gearbox will also be more efficient, allowing you to use a bigger prop - but also more expensive.

eCalc.PNG

 

You can prop up to a 13 X 8 for a bit more power.

 

 

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Peter

Hello Alan

I recall converting a Tracker fuz to electric a few years ago. Not the easiest of conversions because of the slip on nose cone but possible. I removed the inner nose by simply warming the area where it is epoxied in until it softened and pulling the whole thing out. The outer sheath was then epoxied in place. Then cut the nose off to fit your motor mount and make a hatch big enough to take all the gear and battery. Lastly cut a hole between the wing bolts so that servos can be inserted under the wing.

The motor set up that you quote sound like it will be more than enough. The battery could be a lot smaller. It is a glider and not a power model so as you only need a very limited motor run and it would save a lot of weight.

It will certainly keep you busy during the winter months!

 

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alanmorton

Nice to know it’s been done before, the way you have explained it sounds similar to what I had in mind. A couple of people have mentioned the oversize battery and I will take this on board and start off with a smaller one and see how it goes.

i have just this evening started to make a new nose cone that I shall shape oval at one end to fit to the fuz and round at the other end to accept the round motor, I made a silicone rubber mold some years ago to make nosecones for the tracker so it’s not too difficult.

i appreciate the feed back and am starting to learn a few things

Alan

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alanmorton
21 hours ago, cirrusRC said:

Ecalc shows the following for the data you provided.     I wasn't sure on the wing area so used standard 100".      

a gearbox will also be more efficient, allowing you to use a bigger prop - but also more expensive.

eCalc.PNG

 

You can prop up to a 13 X 8 for a bit more power.

 

 

Thank you for this data I understand some of it no doubt I will understand more as I get going, I will experiment when the time comes so thanks for the advice on the prop size.

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