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Freestyler 6


Munch197

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After a very straightforward build, I managed to maiden the FS6 on Sunday on Bishop Hill.

It was very light conditions 4-6ms, a bit crossed and the low sun wasn't ideal, in fact I did question whether it was wise but what could go wrong...

It went of without any trim required and flew OK, although the conditions were so marginal it was difficult to learn anything much except it respnds well to controls with settings as per my FS5. Dificult to even get enough height to come around behind me for landing so a sideways slope landing had to do.

2nd flight the conditions had improved enough for me to start getting the nose down and it definately has a good natural pace in low wind. Turns were good but it didn't seem sensible to start getting aggressive in the turn (as I am itching to do) that can wait for another day and a bit more lift.

The build was more straightforward than any other I have done, some photos below for info. The fuse was a simple servo install in the pre-cut positions but the servos needed a fair bit of grinding off the arises to sit down properly. It comes with a moulded nose weight and a 16500 li-ion sits with lots of room and my Futaba R6008HS receiever de-cased on top.

The wings come with a plywood bearing support rib pre-installed and the horns are already mounted in the ailerons and flaps. So with a fixed length GRP pushrod, the geometry is all there for you pre-installed. All you have to do is glue the plywood blocks in either side of the servoand screw it down. You need to cut a bit of wiper away to get the pins in to the horns but otherwise it couldn't be simpler and would be difficult to cock up! Although I did manage to blow up a servo by plugging it into the reciever the wrong way round (signal & negative reversed) 🙄 But thats a design flaw in my book, shouldn't blow for that, others don't...

Recommended CG from TUDM is 103-104mm to start (similar to FS5), I went with 104.5 initially and will try moving it back a bit once we are acquainted. At that CG it weights 2309g.

PS: note the drone operator number on the fuse, you never know when the slope police will strike.

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20191202_134659.thumb.jpg.bcd874b62aec8f294fcd5014c4553119.jpgfuse.thumb.jpg.a547e841636f6ec88dfdffab435dabd0.jpg

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  • Peter G

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After a very straightforward build, I managed to maiden the FS6 on Sunday on Bishop Hill. It was very light conditions 4-6ms, a bit crossed and the low sun wasn't ideal, in fact I did question wh

I couldn't resist a bit of red, white & blue for this one. Although I suspect the design will divide opinion 😉 Build quality is second to none, super stiff throughout. Wing is very thin 19.43m

During my holidays, I also go on my TOA slope with the 6th and a medium fresh wind speed, this time the lighter version but full of tungsten:  

Posted Images

I flew my first comp with the 6 on Saturday and it went pretty well.

Conditions were crossed and variable so difficult to draw any real conclusions but climb outs were good and straight line speed seems very good, cutting through the cross wind well.

I flew relatively light with only 500g ballast max. in 9-10ms but it didn't feel light or heavy, about right. I got great air in round 1 but mostly the downwind turn was really difficult (depending on the air) and it didn't feel very 'grippy' at that end when it was crossed but I'm pretty sure that would be the same with any model in those conditions.

I experimented a bit with the CG moving it back to 106.5mm for a couple of rounds and it still felt stable, but not any better as far as i could tell.

I need a day on the slope playing with set up to get the elevator / flap respose how I want it and build confidence but it was a decent start. I didn't fly particularly well and was lucky that the round I really cocked up (2) was against the FTD, so a discard anyway. So a decent start but further work required on set up and no back to back comparison with the 5 yet.

 

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Peter G

Hi Aubry, like the Air France colour scheme 👍

I had another good competition with mine at Levisham a few weeks back (7-10ms variable air 40-50s times) and it felt good even in the less good air.

Following another session with it at the weekend in 10ms on a really good hill (Bishop), I am working on a colour scheme to order another one. As my confidence with it grows, I am getting more aggressive in the turn, which it likes and it is definately really quick and maintains speed well through a run.

I have flown it back to back with the FS5 a couple of times now too (although not against the clock) and it feels quicker in a straight line and around the turns.

The only thing I am not sure about is how it will fly in low wind (3-5ms). From my first flight experience, I suspect the 5 will be better in low wind. But more experimentation is needed.

So far, I have decided that this will be my model in mid to strong conditions and as such, I am going to order another strong one (as these are the conditions when you are most likely to damage a model).

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Aubry GABANON

Hi all,

For those who are interested to save time, finish without cracking any lips, I have done any pictures of my solution.
In fact, I did a melting pot of part from Servorahmen iDS parts for KST X10 http://www.servorahmen.de/Integrated-Drive-System/IDS/IDS-KST-X10.html and arm from original TUDM LDS.
Let me know if you any question :-)

Cheers,
Aubry

Full album here :
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FWkKSwC9oBaaw5Kp6

Maiden planned very soon

 

 

Capture d’écran 2020-02-07 à 16.56.13.png

Capture d’écran 2020-02-07 à 16.56.34.png

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Andy_B

Aubry  where do you get the circuit boards for the green connectors from ...? good solution with the normal fibre horns servorahmen ones are awful

 

Andy

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12 minutes ago, Andy_B said:

Aubry  where do you get the circuit boards for the green connectors from ...? 

 

Andy

I agree they give an extremely neat install solution, but worth doubling up soldered joints, I'm not so sure? 🤔

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Aubry GABANON

Hi Andy,

It's from Lucas KUGLER, the son of Jacky KUGLER who organise the Vosges RCN FAI contest. He had made any plates for their Freestyler and give me some to try.

If I remember well... a complete plate is about 20euros for around 50 pieces... 2 pieces needed per glider.

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oipigface

I’m with Paul on this one, unless someone can explain to me what problem the circuit boards are a solution to. It doesn’t look to me as if there are two solder joints as Paul thinks. Aren’t there some kind of copper sheaths in the board that connect with each pin? 

There’s a personal angle to this for me as well: I must have wired up hundreds of MPX plugs and sockets over the years, and now I’m quite skilled at it. But the other day, I was confronted with the task of wiring a little PCB in a Batwing that I am building. Thinking this would be similar to wiring pins, or jointing wires and all those other tasks I’ve got used to, I got the soldering iron out and managed to destroy the PCB within about a half an hour! Seems like a different set of skills is required.

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Andy_B
14 hours ago, Aubry GABANON said:

Hi Andy,

It's from Lucas KUGLER, the son of Jacky KUGLER who organise the Vosges RCN FAI contest. He had made any plates for their Freestyler and give me some to try.

If I remember well... a complete plate is about 20euros for around 50 pieces... 2 pieces needed per glider.

Cheers Aubry ,

#John  Ive got no specific need for these  but for Eur20  hardly breaking the bank and I have new toys on order so not sure what challenges there may be .....😶

 

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Andy_B

Thanks Simon but no not really , im thinking more of somthing to turn the joint through 90 degrees 

Andy

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Peter G

Its these being discussed.

A handy thing in a Freestyler (or any other narrow fuselage) if you want to glue the females in to the fuse.

If you have the wires coming off the back as normal, there isnt enough room between the sides and they clash in the middle. You can bend one side up and the other side down but these boards would solve that problem.

If you are getting some Andy, I will have a few 👍 Assuming you havn't ordered 25 new models 😉

252065278_ScreenHunter_32Feb_1414_22.thumb.jpg.bef3478dc34ab60509025466f5e18529.jpg1565994638_ScreenHunter_33Feb_1414_22.thumb.jpg.19a6892cce0f91f099f5f8c53d73bb46.jpg1366046382_ScreenHunter_34Feb_1414_22.thumb.jpg.2e57b4b76f138a2e1fe1ebf0676d4fd6.jpg

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oipigface

Aaah! I see it now! I’ll have some spares, too, if there are any.

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f3fman

Uhmmm, nice solution, but .....   why cant you just bring the wires in at right angles to the original pins with a right angle bend in the bare wire ?

 

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oipigface
5 minutes ago, f3fman said:

Uhmmm, nice solution, but .....   why cant you just bring the wires in at right angles to the original pins with a right angle bend in the bare wire ?

 

I’ve tried doing this on a couple of occasions, without success. It turns out to be very difficult to get heatshrink to stay in place around a sharp corner, and without a reliable heatshrink job the overlapping wires are going to short. It can also be very tricky to get the wires with their bends into the housing in the fuselage.

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