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  2. oipigface

    Idea for a "F3F Community" Project

    I think he flies.
  3. Brett82

    Idea for a "F3F Community" Project

    No problem buddy. Hopefully we can get someone from Germany to bring them over. Then we can send them back with you when you head to Asturias. I think Daniel is coming to HOH, anyone know if he drives or flies?
  4. Today
  5. oipigface

    Idea for a "F3F Community" Project

    Sorry, Brett, I misled you about Norway. I’m going by plane, so it is Asturias only. Another possibility is that the items could be brought to one of the UK Eurotours.
  6. MikeDLG

    Learning the hard way

    Nice work Paul! I haven't started on mine yet.
  7. Woodstock

    Electric RES plans

    How about: https://www.hoelleinshop.com/introduction.htm?shop=hoellein&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=GRU2015&t=49301&c=171&p=171 ?
  8. Brett82

    Idea for a "F3F Community" Project

    So, I've had a reply from the designer and he has said it will be OK. So, drum role please..... The glider is the Caldera R, designed by Dieter Perlick. I'm sure most of you know its an awesome design and very quick. The master moulds are currently with Peter Kowalski in Germany, I've emailed him to see if he is able to take them to one of the Eurotour events that John will be attending so he can bring them back. I will be making some moulds for myself and the community idea, but I'm guessing one or two people might also wish to make some for themselves. The other option that I'm getting confirmation on, is there may actually be a brand new set of moulds already made up that we could purchase. I think they would be out my price range but I'm still waiting to hear back on how much. Could be an option for a few people to chip in then you have access to moulds to make your own planes. If anyone knows of anyone travelling from Germany to the Euro comps in Norway and Asturius that may be able take the master moulds to hand over to John then please let me know by PM. I will post updates here for those interested. Brett P.S. just to tempt a few of you... my current Caldera R
  9. Woodstock

    Hot glue gun advice

    It does eliminate "at the field" replacements, but back in the workshop they are very easy to remove with a dremel.
  10. Paul Gleeson

    Learning the hard way

    Here is the result of your inspiration on my old Stark, boom snapped, nose broken off and wing in 2 pieces. I thought I can learn some repair techniques and get it flying again. The boom and nose were repaired as per this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FmYpPVUyws Then I also put some carbon cloth on the inside and packed the nose with a plastic bag filled with sand to make sure it was pressed hard again the sides. I got the wing back together with some gorilla glue to fill any gaps in the foam and taped it tightly together. Then a carbon patched on the d-box, and over that some glass fabric. Got as much epoxy off with paper towels, then pulled a plastic sheet tightly over to get a smooth surface. Bit of primer, sanding and polish the wing is done. Really like the fact that the repaired area is as shiny as the original skin. All good skills to learn. Part of the joy of F3K
  11. I'm hoping for low wind. First contest with no ballast and 215g plane won't be fun otherwise.
  12. Mark Evans

    Taranis X9 Lite

    It's not recommended, but if you only the need the smart port to update the fw, it can be done just holding it place. Yeah I gotta read again on binding, although the program I'm using for my dlg isn't available on 2.3 yet I don't think, in fact is companion even on 2.3 yet? That side I haven't looked into, nor have I any batteries for it yet haha.
  13. Graham Woods

    Taranis X9 Lite

    Taranis X9 Lite: I got mine from the very helpful Richard Bago at T9 as well. Nice compact radio. Boards inside look very well made, moving wires supported etc. Switching to Mode 1 from Mode 2 was easy enough once you get the hang of which screws to loosen and tighten to tension and free the gimbal springs. The binding is rather different from what we're used to i.e. Registration and Smart Match, so read the .pdf 'struckshuns! Great for anyone with experience of the Taranis X9D, X7, Horus 10S & 12S working on OpenTx 2.2.x or 2.3. As always FrSky release a little before they really should and seem to use customers as beta-testers, thinking of R9 and 868 here. FrSky G-RX6: I chose the tiny G-RX6 with gyro for gliders with which to mate although soldering that tiny socket on that receiver is not for the faint-hearted. Graham W
  14. I will give an indication at lunchtime on Saturday - final decision 1800 Saturday.
  15. isoaritfirst

    Hot glue gun advice

    A simple way to secure the servo to the opposite skin is to use either a piece of balsa or blue foam. Glue to the servo then fix the servo cover securely in place with this packing piece filling the gap UHU por give a firm but removable fix for this piece and the servo cover. Straps work equally well if there is room to fit them, but in many f3 models it can be difficult. The Shinto uses a strap constructed of carbon on a balsa backing. The carbon gives it strength and the balsa allows its thickness to be changed to make it a good fit gear breakages can be prevented by good linkage design, although this is more difficult these days with models having lds fitted under the skins . But it’s still should be considered. I replaced the original lDS in my first Shinto to increase the advantage the servo had. Despite only small differences in horn lengths it made a significant difference.
  16. It's odd. Throughout my 'formative years' in rc, I always wanted a Sitar Special, more than anything else. It looked so fast, so racy, so sleek compared to the so called kippers at the time. I think that's why I have always resisted the urge to own one over the 30 years or so. I really don't want to ruin the dream and disappoint my 15 year old self. That said, if someone made a 'short kit' as it were, I'd still be tempted! What I *really* wanted was an F3b model I saw at the Nats circa 1990, which I believe Dave Charles flew, called a 'Duel' if I remember rightly. Never did or could find out more, but it was beautiful. Matt
  17. Yesterday
  18. oipigface

    Hot glue gun advice

    I have been known to fit straps, but this does make them more difficult to get out. It’s another of those trade-offs!
  19. Mike - would you mind confirming when you’ll be making a call on the weather if it’s required? I presume Saturday early evening but just wanted to check.
  20. Woodstock

    Hot glue gun advice

    I still think servo trays fail the primary test of a secure fastening to the wing structure, in that they are affixed to one skin only. That makes the latent Engineer in me go all OCD ...
  21. SoggyBoots

    This year's "Not Lundy" "Kerry Glide-in", Ireland

    If you can't make it I'll have to crash a glider in your honour.
  22. Sorry Chris, can't make it this year. Expensive holiday to Canada coming up. Sandwiches are safe then.
  23. Mark Evans

    Taranis X9 Lite

    So, out of curiosity and the fact it was only £66 from T9, I picked up a X9 Lite. It's actually quite nice. I like the smaller size over the normal X9D+ and I think it might be a good choice for those whole don't like the shape of the QX7 in the hand. Sticks feel like the X9D+, momentary switch top right as usual, although it's kinda in the position of switch G on the X9D+ so a little further forward, feels a bit strange but you could get used to it. Empty space where H would be so I think I'm gonna drill a hole and fit a push button there. 4 screws and back is off, only the battery lead is connecting it to the front casing. Haven't got any batteries for it yet so not played around with it, but I think for dlg use, if you don't like the QX7 or the Xlite but still want something smaller and lighter than a X9D+, I think it's good alternative and you can't grumble about the price either. I'll bring it on Sunday if anyone wanted to have a look at one. Although I still won't have any batteries for it.
  24. oipigface

    Hot glue gun advice

    Well, yes, I can’t think of any good reason why a printed version shouldn’t be possible. I’ve never used grommets in gliders. I believe that their main purpose is to absorb vibration from a motor. Pete’s point about landing stresses is a good one, but it’s one of those trade-offs that can probably never be fully resolved. The F3F model for which this frame is intended needs to have really slop-free surfaces to perform at its best, and this means that a gear will be stripped from time to time. I agree that it may be worth using a glue that is able to handle normal flight loads, but gives way in a heavy landing, but what glue that is, I don’t know.
  25. Graham Woods

    Dear Diary

  26. pete beadle

    Hot glue gun advice

    Hi Slap I think the most important thing to remember as regards servo fixing is the trade-off between providing a slop-free linkage and having ready access for removal and replacement of the servos involved All too often I see servo installations that are both literally sloppy and without any means of removal that doesn't involve damage to the servo case or to the structure to which the servo is attached It seems to me that "modern" servo instals are, in the main, a recipe for disaster when the model is flown by a relative beginner......I once saw a model that had been landed heavily, that had managed to shake loose ALL of its wing servos, simply because there was nowhere for the energy produced on landing to go except through the linkages and ultimately through the servo's attachment system, that basically saved the servos from damage, but, in doing so, stopped any chance of flying again that day! For me, servo frames are the best trade-off when/as they provide both a solid mounting as well as the facility for easy removal.....trouble is, all too often, this facility isn't recognised in advance, and repair/replacement becomes a very big job that a bit of forethought would, hopefully, have prevented Regards Pete BARCS1702
  27. jetpipe

    KAPPA 20

    That's near enough.
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