X-Models Stingray Advice Please!

[Slope Soaring Sussex]

Hi all

I am after some recommendations / idea's on what servo's you guy have successfully used in an X-models Stingray, please!

What batteries / lipo's people have fitted?

Any help or advice on issues / niggles people have had when building / fitting out their Stingray.

It's not quite a hand holding exercise but I always appreciate advice from others who have 'been there and done that'.

Thanks in advance........

Paul.

[Andy_B]

I had hitec's in mine but cant remember which ones ............  powered by 2 X 2200 lipos 

[Swalleau]

Hi Paul,

I used metal geared Hyperion servos (DH16-FTD for wings and DH20-UTD for tail end).  I put both rudder and elevator servos at the front and close looped the rudder and made a monster crank for the elevator.  Big supported carbon pushrod drives the elevator.  I would be very choosy about servos - I went for the strongest I could find in terms of torque.

The switch is a Jeti MaxBec2 with two six cell 3800 NiMh packs driving a six volt output.  There is no lead in mine as I chose to carry battery power.

Make formers and a tray for the radio gear.  I have a former at the joiner tube and 6mm ply running from that to the nose.  If I did another I would probably also put a former midway down the boom.  I made a composite rudder post and did a pin hinge on the rudder.  No real niggles to the build in fairness.  There is plenty of space the only thing is to make sure everything is strong enough for the job.  The full carbon one is heavy and very fast, so there is plenty of load in flight and sometimes on landing.  Make sure you put a strong sub former in at the incidence peg.  I did and have not had any issues, but the wings are very solid so I think they need to stopped from having any movement.  The retention of the wings is via a peg in the wings that is clamped to the leading edge anti compression bar.

I did make provision to fit a ballast box.  Never yet felt the need........  I have flown mine in some pretty weak conditions, and no surprise, it is not at its best.  For preference I tend to wait for 12 to 15 mph plus and steeper slopes or cold front cloud streets and breezy which is ideal.  The climb in thermals is way better than you'd expect - allowing a nice blend of thermal flight with monster hooning.

Originally I had 35mHz in the plane.  Now on 2.4 so there are whiskers exiting either side of the fuselage at the back end of the canopy.

I think the enclosed photos cover the key points.

Iain

 

[satinet]

Nice install

[Slope Soaring Sussex]

Thanks Iain for such a detailed discription of your build and the superb pics. I will definitely be taking up some of your suggestions and ideas. Still pondering on what servos to use. I with you, go strong with lots of torque. 

Thanks again!

[satinet]

If the wing takes big servos then use them. The gears are much bigger

[Swalleau]

16mm was about the biggest that would fit the wing.  Not sure what is currently 'good' but Jeti, Savox, MKS, HiTec and even Hacker look to have servos that will do the job.  The HiTec HS5245MG actually looks quite good as the budget option.  There is surprisingly little space in the wing considering the size of the plane and thickness of the wing.  Not much air as X Models have displaced it with Carbon!

The control horns and most of the bought hardware came from Lindeger in Austria.  All have been faultless in use.

Iain

[Swalleau]

Oh, and really make sure the batteries can't move, even a millimetre.  The in flight loads are quite spectacular.......  

[Slope Soaring Sussex]

Hi Iain

Do you remember what size double horn you used?

https://www.lindinger.at/en/airplanes/accessories/control-horns-und-hinges/mbl-ball-joint-control-horn-glass-fiber-m3-25mm-dual

There are a few options, if you wouldn't mind confirming?

Many thanks

Paul

[Slope Soaring Sussex]

I received an accessory pack from Germany for my new Stingray SD. Within the kit you get a rudder post (fits well) a tiny servo tray with a small ill fitting half former which don’t seem to fit well.

i know this is a long shot but does anyone who owned or still owns a X-Models Stingray have a template for the oval fuselage formers and the servo tray I could borrow?

as I said it’s a long shot but worth asking the question.

Any help, as ever - very much appreciated!

Cheers

Paul

[Swalleau]

Hi Paul,

I used the 10mm horns.  Longer would be no problem though.

I will have a dig around but I think I chucked out the paper templates I made.  I probably used woodworking profile to mark them out.  There are a few out there that are quite long.

Cheers

Iain

[glideher]

JR8411 for the tail surfaces and D47 for the wings,,,cant go wrong with diamonds, never had them fail ever even on the heaviest gliders

cheers

[Eyeball]

Hi all,

I know this is a bit of an old thread but I thought I’d try and find some info  here as there doesn’t seem to be much out on other forums.

Basically I’ve just purchased an almost new stingray standard OD and I’m tying to get some info on travels of surfaces, butterfly setting and such and I can’t find anything. It’s not exactly a big deal but I fend it strange that info on the setting is impossible to find, or is it just me.

Id also like to know where people are adding ballast tubes as it’s a possible mod for me in the near future.

So could anyone shed some light in where I can find such info??

 

Many thanks in advance,

Paul

 

[Andy_B]

Paul , ballast options are normally added in the fuz ....tubes /multiple tubes /slabs of brass/lead

as for throws its more suck it and see ...if you prepared to splash on a Stingray and fly it then your no beginner 

Ive had 2 and neither came with anything   

Andy 

you could try dropping a line to glider IT on facebook 

 

[Swalleau]

Hi Paul,

Ballast in the fuselage if you need it.  Mine is nearly 7kgs with the steel joiner - but it is the full fat carbon one.  I've never felt that it needs any more weight to be honest.  In light wind trim with a carbon joiner it is about 6.2 or 6.3 kgs.  Although I made provision for a ballast system that used the wing joiner and formers to retain blocks of lead bolted to the CG I've never bothered to pursue the solution.

For info I've attached my movements, all measured at the widest/most inboard point on the relevant surface.  The mix of modes gives me options that cover big wide smooth aeros, and also allows flying at smaller hills where faster responses are needed.  The twitchier settings enable very nimble and twitchy flying too.  I have the inner flaperons switchable - I would suggest you experiment as the inboard aileron adverse yaw effect can be quite strong.

Iain

Stingray Movements.pdf

[Eyeball]

9 hours ago, Andy_B said:

Paul , ballast options are normally added in the fuz ....tubes /multiple tubes /slabs of brass/lead

as for throws its more suck it and see ...if you prepared to splash on a Stingray and fly it then your no beginner 

Ive had 2 and neither came with anything   

Andy 

you could try dropping a line to glider IT on facebook 

 

Hi Andy,

Thank for the info, I think I’ll hold off on the ballast for the short term, probably until I’ve got her dialled in nicely and maybe I will have seen the conversion in the flesh buy then.

I pave waiting for the chance to get my hands on one these Stingrays for a few years now as it’s a nice size for sloping on your own, as for a beginner lol, I wish I was, I started gliding at 14 and that was 36 years ago so there’s a few hours under the belt these days.

I actually managed to get up and fly this afternoon at the cat and fiddle near Buxton, it’s was about 15 knots and -1 with snow on the ground, I flew it with Stockport setting and it was way to tame for me so I maxed out the aileron throws and it started to feel a bit better but I’ll see if I can get more travel on the workbench shortly.

I think the girl has potential and I’m looking forward to flying her from the Orme on a good blow in the very near future

Cheers,

 

Paul

[Eyeball]

3 hours ago, Swalleau said:

Hi Paul,

Ballast in the fuselage if you need it.  Mine is nearly 7kgs with the steel joiner - but it is the full fat carbon one.  I've never felt that it needs any more weight to be honest.  In light wind trim with a carbon joiner it is about 6.2 or 6.3 kgs.  Although I made provision for a ballast system that used the wing joiner and formers to retain blocks of lead bolted to the CG I've never bothered to pursue the solution.

For info I've attached my movements, all measured at the widest/most inboard point on the relevant surface.  The mix of modes gives me options that cover big wide smooth aeros, and also allows flying at smaller hills where faster responses are needed.  The twitchier settings enable very nimble and twitchy flying too.  I have the inner flaperons switchable - I would suggest you experiment as the inboard aileron adverse yaw effect can be quite strong.

Iain

Stingray Movements.pdf

Hi Iain,

Many thanks for the info on your setting, they look a bit more than standard, which I felt was far too tame for me so I’ll have a another look at the throws once I’m unloaded.

Ive also added snap flap and a couple of other mixes but I need to get the right conditions to find out how they work.

All the best,

Paul

[Eyeball]

Hi all,

 

Im not sure if this thread will get any response as it’s getting quite old now but here goes...

As per my last post, I’m now in the process of making a support plate in order to carry lead plate for ballast so I can have the option on heavy wind days as I’m not really finding this model that impressive right now. I’ve kind of put it doesn’t to the fact that my local hills are just not big enough for the kind of air this glider needs to really get into the groove.

At the same time, I’m really tempted in adding a power plant to the aircraft, either a def or possibly the cheaper option which would be a folding prop system. My question is, has anyone here done the same with there stingray and if so what power systems and spec did you go with. I’d like to find out about both but I’m struggling to find any information on the web.

I look forward to hopefully hearing from you with some good ideas

[isoaritfirst]

More ballast is likely to make it slower and more settled, if you are already finding the model isn’t getting on step on your hills. 

I’d suggest you just dial in some down elevator and let it run more. Just try to keep it flying fast, by pushing it on. 

[Marc RC pilot]

On 09/02/2018 at 18:08, Swalleau said:

Hi Paul,

I used metal geared Hyperion servos (DH16-FTD for wings and DH20-UTD for tail end).  I put both rudder and elevator servos at the front and close looped the rudder and made a monster crank for the elevator.  Big supported carbon pushrod drives the elevator.  I would be very choosy about servos - I went for the strongest I could find in terms of torque.

The switch is a Jeti MaxBec2 with two six cell 3800 NiMh packs driving a six volt output.  There is no lead in mine as I chose to carry battery power.

Make formers and a tray for the radio gear.  I have a former at the joiner tube and 6mm ply running from that to the nose.  If I did another I would probably also put a former midway down the boom.  I made a composite rudder post and did a pin hinge on the rudder.  No real niggles to the build in fairness.  There is plenty of space the only thing is to make sure everything is strong enough for the job.  The full carbon one is heavy and very fast, so there is plenty of load in flight and sometimes on landing.  Make sure you put a strong sub former in at the incidence peg.  I did and have not had any issues, but the wings are very solid so I think they need to stopped from having any movement.  The retention of the wings is via a peg in the wings that is clamped to the leading edge anti compression bar.

I did make provision to fit a ballast box.  Never yet felt the need........  I have flown mine in some pretty weak conditions, and no surprise, it is not at its best.  For preference I tend to wait for 12 to 15 mph plus and steeper slopes or cold front cloud streets and breezy which is ideal.  The climb in thermals is way better than you'd expect - allowing a nice blend of thermal flight with monster hooning.

Originally I had 35mHz in the plane.  Now on 2.4 so there are whiskers exiting either side of the fuselage at the back end of the canopy.

I think the enclosed photos cover the key points.

Iain

 

Beautiful work Iain