Peter G Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I have a broken stinger fuse pretty much at the LE of the tail plane I would like to get wet carbon cloth up the inside, maybe pressurise with a ballon? Grind the outside, maybe some carbon tows into the depressions and fill. However, I cant think how I would successfully get the cloth inside. I could lay it in one side but when I push the other piece on it would no doubt catch and push it all away? And how would I not stick the push rods which are thankfully intact. Or should I forget that and just cyano it back together, grind outside and sock it round the ouside? Advice from folks who have had similar or have bright ideas would be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonesoaring2003 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 You could try Tony Fu's method of making a carbon part tube to fit the inside of the fus and then repairing from the outside: http://www.sloperace...-fix-fixes.html Scroll down to the article on fuz fix. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon_F Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Think I would make a carbon tube for the inside with a similar cross section - slightly oversize so you can cut a slot and make it a 'sprung' fit when you fit. Use some peel ply to squeeze the excess epoxy out when you make the tube to keep it light. It would be a shame to have a sock on the outside. Hopefully someone else will come along with an alternative 'cunning' fix. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon_F Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 You ciould try Tony Fu's method of making a carbon part tube to fit the inside of the fus and then repairing from the outside: http://www.sloperace...-fix-fixes.html Scroll down to the article on fuz fix. LOL...you beat me to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonesoaring2003 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Obviously "great minds" Jon :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 +1 for the Fu Fix. The only problem will be getting the incidence spot on. The fact it is right on the LE of the tail will mean small distances are critical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f3fman Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 +1 for the Fu Fix. The only problem will be getting the incidence spot on. The fact it is right on the LE of the tail will mean small distances are critical. I think my maths tells me it doesn't matter about where the break is, if you introduce a 1degree error in gluing the boom anywhere along the length it will still be 1 degree change to the incidence ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Yep, but being out at the back of a 12cm length by 1mm has a more severe consequence than being our by 1mm over 40mm (if it had broken halfway down the boom.) Also it may be harder to sight up the repair over such a short length... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Thanks chaps, I had looked at Tony's article and thought it didn't really apply in this scenario but it will work fine. I think I will end up with two 'braces' internally offset with the top one more forward than the bottom one as its a jaggy break and I don't want to go near the tail mounts. So it will be a two stage operation, bottom one first. Also liberal amounts of vaseline on the push rods as to stick them could be a nightmare! Tom Satinet has very kindly offered to make a jig so all being well I should be able to get it lined up as was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f3fman Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Yep, but being out at the back of a 12cm length by 1mm has a more severe consequence than being our by 1mm over 40mm (if it had broken halfway down the boom.) Also it may be harder to sight up the repair over such a short length... Being out by 1mm wherever it is changes the angle of attack of the tailplane by a certain amount, which is not increased by the length of boom behind the break. I'm assuming that your 1mm is the amount of error in gluing the two front and back parts together eg you end up with 1mm of a gap at the top compared with no gap at the bottom when you push it all together and glue it, maybe you are thinking something different. :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_B Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Jeez Pete you dont have much look with new planes do ya ......................my Cyril ended up lloking that way ......I cynoed it up then wrapped it with a glass sock maybe 6cm and has stood up to plenty of abuse .....and to be honest youd not notice unless you had a good look ...ill post a piccy later 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 I'm going to put it back together straight :popcorn: And I have sourced a fuselage locally that I can collect tonight and make a mould from... No they don't stay new for long :mad: Seems to be the ones I like best I smash soonest. This was a schoolboy programming error leaving me with no ailerons in normal mode. I won't do that again though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isoaritfirst Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Personally I would cyano it back together - it's easy to get an accurate refit by ensuring all the little bits are back where they came from. Tack it first with very small blobs, maybe use a little locally applied heat if there are a few strands that are troublesome, poke things in etc untill they all sit in their original positions with a very small bladed screwdriver. When its all together and cyanoed securely then sand it right down to as thin as It will stand before it drops apart again, wrap with a thin band of wetted out cloth like you would electrical tape - thin - thick - thin. Basically just removing and the cloth around the break area - and replacing it with some new stuff that is flared out into the original fus. It can be done easily and with no external lump. (although on very thin walled fuselages it does get harder. ) simple job. Have a good look at those pushrods though Pete, My Cyril had a similar off and it wasn't until after the repair that it became evident that one of the push rods had a green stick fracture. The Cyril repair is unnoticeable and has been flown in anger many times since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ed Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Being out by 1mm wherever it is changes the angle of attack of the tailplane by a certain amount, which is not increased by the length of boom behind the break. I'm assuming that your 1mm is the amount of error in gluing the two front and back parts together eg you end up with 1mm of a gap at the top compared with no gap at the bottom when you push it all together and glue it, maybe you are thinking something different. :confused: I'm thinking that if the back end is 1mm higher than is should be then over a 6 inch length of tube the error will be greater than if it is 1mm at the end of a 30 inch length of tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f3fman Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I'm thinking that if the back end is 1mm higher than is should be then over a 6 inch length of tube the error will be greater than if it is 1mm at the end of a 30 inch length of tube. Aha - we are talking chalk and cheese and are therefore both right wrt our own scenario, that's avoided world war three then :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Getting there with the repair so thought I would share some pics... Firstly borrowed a fuse from Mike McCracken and made a jig with 18mm MDF and P38 Used fuselage to mould a couple of inserts (round outside) from 2 layers 200g cloth and cyano'd in place giving more surface area for glueing Glued broken bit to inserts using UHU plus 300 epoxy (good stuff) lined up and pushed down in jig and wicked in cyano to jagged edges and kicked it. Taped it all into jig overnight. Ground the joint back around the effected area to a square edged shape that I could cut from cloth and added 2 layers 200g cloth to outside. Now ready for sanding back and filling - ready to fly again at the weekend. Anyone want to paint ot for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satinet Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Good work Peter. I don't think it should be too hard to paint a small area like that with rattle cans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Halfords Acrylics do a good job. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 There is one good thing about being totally un-original with colour scheme's... I have white, red and yellow sitting here. Had thought about going to the local bike painting place but will probably give it a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon_t Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 You could just put a few white and green stripes in the area, and claim it is the Gunning Tartan Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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